Thermal scopes….

Oh, maybe it is just reflection off the moderator, what can I do about that? Maybe tonight I’ll whip it off and see what it’s like off the gun. I’d never be able to get a clear focused image at 300 yds tho, 150 max. I find the focus is such a small fine adjustment in it. Thanks

Save messing about just take the mod off first

If you want thermal i think the pulsar range is awesome
 
Oh, maybe it is just reflection off the moderator, what can I do about that? Maybe tonight I’ll whip it off and see what it’s like off the gun. I’d never be able to get a clear focused image at 300 yds tho, 150 max. I find the focus is such a small fine adjustment in it. Thanks
Mount the torch underneath the barrel, close as possible to the rear of the moderator.
 
Assuming you have extended the zoom lens on the excellent Pard there really should not be an issue out to 120m but if you still have an issue and it’s not moderator related I would recommend a quality IR torch such as the Solaris which on my 008P enables me to identify badgers or foxes well beyond 300 yards. This is a lot cheaper than the thermal scope route!
As has been said above IR suffers badly on very humid/wet nights as the droplets/rain reflect straight back at you in the IR beam. Though I do not shoot deer at night a simple remedy on such relatively rare occasions is a decent old-fashioned mounted torch.
Good luck.
🦊🦊
 
I've been shooting with a thermal scope for 5years. Had a few thousand rabbits, hundreds of foxes and over 200 badgers.

I would never go back to NV unless I was night shooting allot of deer AND needed to be elective I'm which case I would use an Archer with high quality IR torch.

I've shot out to 250m, the problem with some models is you can't fine tune your zero enough as even on the lowest click value a single click moves the poi too much at say 300m.

The speed at which you can acquire and shoot multiple animals is insane compared to NV.

Stick to pulsar dedicated thermal scopes, the competition is not reliable enough for my liking, even ended up with a full refund after trying something else, software would crash and freeze the image, very dangerous of it happens at the wrong moment. Front attachments are a waste of time if you require good accuracy.

If you can warrant a trip out to Gloucestershire I have a trail xp50 and a trail2 xp50 both on rifles, you can come out for a night's shooting and try before you buy if you like?
 
You will struggle to sex deer at night with a pure thermal spotter/scope setup. Even the most expensive stuff won’t give you the detail to be able to tell 100% between say a roe doe or buck. Not 100% anyway and certainly not at range. That said if it’s muntjac or winter shooting on fallow/reds/sika I suppose id isn’t as much of an issue.
yes I know what you mean, thermal great for spotting them at distance but ir is great for seeing any details, need a combination of them both!. Just would be nice if I could see something beyond 30yds! I’m sure The scope used to be clearer and lately iv just been blaming the weather but the more I think about it the more I wonder if it’s just not performing quite right.
 
Do English deer night licences permit the use of thermal?

NV been dreadful here for humidity the last week or so. 50m max visibility.
 
How wide is your mod?
is the ir focused to a tight or wide beam?
how high is the mod above the mod.
which pard exactly are you using, as I get confused with all the models available. All the god old days, 008 or 007, that was it. Lol.
It’s a 008, the mod has a diameter of 1&3/4”. And the front of the mod is 22” infront of the front of the scope. I have the scope mounted fairly far back, I’m not sure if this is how everyone has theirs mounted (?) but any further forward and it was the wrong distance from my eye to see thro it. It certainly seems abit different to a good old normal scope but iv had plenty of deer & foxes thro it over the last couple of years so seems to do the job. How do I know if it’s focused at a wide or narrow beam?
 
The ir bouncing off the mod is unusual with a Pard008 and its vcsel laser based beam which is a lot tighter than the older led based torches which suffered from a bad halo effect.

On your 008, the IR is focused by pushing or pulling the sliding surround of the ir lens…the ir has 3 powers by repeat pushing the ir button…

Might be trying to teach you to suck eggs here though! 🤣

If you’re struggling with your Pard and think it might be faulty, it might be worth popping in to see Ash at Custom Hunting who’s now got a shop in Doddington if that’s close to you… he’s one of the most knowledgeable Pard people around being one of, if not, the first importer of the original Pards.

Cheers

fizz
 
I really don’t think it is your mod. The 008 sits higher than a conventional scope because of the accompanying mount and necessary rail so methinks because of the loss of performance you might wish to go back to basics with the Pard and pretty much set it up again - but first clean the lenses! Then simply press the Menu button for a few seconds and use the eyepiece focus to sharpen the menu letters, then exit the menu and leave that eyepiece alone - period! Adjust distance focus as required with the front adjustment ring and that is it. Remember you may have to slightly adjust the distance focus ring when using the IR initially. The IR torch (top lense) will go from flood to spot by pulling out fully (twisting not required though it can be stiff) for spot and retracting fully for flood. You can adjust the degree of spot depending on your shooting distance but generally once set i.e. when the screen is fully illuminated I leave it alone. If you fully pull it out and look at something 20m away you will see why it is called spot - push it back in and the spot will widen then disappear as flood arrives! Don’t be tempted to have too much spot - gently does it or you will incur “white out”. The IR button has three power settings - once you have selected “IR on” a simple push toggles between each power level - though be aware full is hard on the battery!
If that doesn’t sort it then you really have a problem. That said in two years of constant use mine has been faultless - a Sirius IR has added clarity/shootable distance beyond what I will ever need!
🦊🦊
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I really don’t think it is your mod. The 008 sits higher than a conventional scope because of the accompanying mount and necessary rail so methinks because of the loss of performance you might wish to go back to basics with the Pard and pretty much set it up again - but first clean the lenses! Then simply press the Menu button for a few seconds and use the eyepiece focus to sharpen the menu letters, then exit the menu and leave that eyepiece alone - period! Adjust distance focus as required with the front adjustment ring and that is it. Remember you may have to slightly adjust the distance focus ring when using the IR initially. The IR torch (top lense) will go from flood to spot by pulling out fully (twisting not required though it can be stiff) for spot and retracting fully for flood. You can adjust the degree of spot depending on your shooting distance but generally once set i.e. when the screen is fully illuminated I leave it alone. If you fully pull it out and look at something 20m away you will see why it is called spot - push it back in and the spot will widen then disappear as flood arrives! Don’t be tempted to have too much spot - gently does it or you will incur “white out”. The IR button has three power settings - once you have selected “IR on” a simple push toggles between each power level - though be aware full is hard on the battery!
If that doesn’t sort it then you really have a problem. That said in two years of constant use mine has been faultless - a Sirius IR has added clarity/shootable distance beyond what I will ever need!
🦊🦊
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Thanks. I think il give it a go just starting completely again. Can I do a factory re set before doing all this? Oh yours looks like it’s mounted just like mine so that’s good. Thanks
 
Thanks. I think il give it a go just starting completely again. Can I do a factory re set before doing all this? Oh yours looks like it’s mounted just like mine so that’s good. Thanks
I wouldn’t bother with the reset.
Tonite’s proof of the Pulsar/Pard/Vmax and Viht N120 recipe.
This rascal was sneaking in on full stalk mode - crouched really low before it finally sat up at about 100m. It might give you an idea of how well the Solaris can fill your screen - do bear in mind these are fone fotos of the Ipad screen footage so nowhere near as sharp as what you see live.
🦊🦊
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I recall hearing of a Pard 008 scope having a sticky ir filter ie, the filter didn’t pop out the way when changing to night mode. This would significantly affect the view under full ir. To test switch between night and full colour day mode and you should hear a clean click - if not, the ir filter may be sticking.
N
 
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