Thinking of reloading,

what does the ultrasonic do that the tumbler doesn't, its not so much shiny brass but i thought it easier to see any faults in the brass if its clean

It takes less time and costs less , you've got the question a#$e about face if you're not bothered about shiny .
Clean cases are easier to inspect ,which is the main reason for cleaning them
, how you clean them divides opinion . A couple of hours in a wet tumbler or 10 minutes in an ultrasonic , no pins to sieve out, just rinse. It takes the same length of time for drying . I have no problem cleaning primer pockets or inspecting cases afterwards . All depends on how shiny you want your ammo . An ultrasonic for cleaning and a veg' dehydrator for drying, probably a third of the cost of a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler.
It boils down to what "you" want , don't be fooled into thinking shiny brass makes any difference to the quality of your reloads .
Other opinions are available of course , this is just mine .
 
Last edited:
i need a wet tumbler but im struggling to want to pay over £200 for a spinning drinks bottle with a airfix motor on it, but i cant see a way round it:banghead:
Try this. From Gumtree location Cambridge £20 only used once.

 
Try this. From Gumtree location Cambridge £20 only used once.

looks nice but i bet it wont last long, heard some tales of these cheap things lasting 10 mins or so,
im now liking the sound of the ultrasonic cleaner :)
 
Drill, case holder, fine wire wool = shiney case ;) I don't reload vast amounts and do brass once back so small volumes. Saves ££ on leccy lol
Same method as me... but I dispense with the expensive drill & case holder and use a "Finger Twiddle" and fine steel wool ;).. but I suppose I could do it while it's in the case trimming stage :-|
 
right chaps, just as think im plodding on nicely with my research i read something that throws a spanner in the works, no my first understanding was to pick a bullet you want to use, say a 55g hornady v max, then find a 223 powder for 55g bullets, then look at the powder data, in my hornady book it only has there bullets with a list of suitable powders, and the powder data,
but in the vihtavuori powder there is no data for a 55g sierra bullet, does that mean i couldnt use this combo, yet there is data for the 45g and the 65g,
in my lee manual for 55g frangibles theres no mention of an N-120 to N-140 powder or the alliant reloader 10X but has them all from 50g up to 55g but just not frangibles which im guessing vmax will fall under, im a bit lost again:rolleyes:
 
Here is some Sierra 55gn data. Make sure you pick a bullet weight that your rifle shoots accurately, I generally shoot 50-52gn in my bolt action guns. I used a lot of Sierra Blitz bullets for fox and rabbit use, they are explosive!

Start out below max load and load for accuracy rather than max speed.

Find someone you know who loads and offer to help in exchange to learn some knowledge. Once you have a load that shoots well stick with it. Good luck.
IMG_0172.png
 
Last edited:
cheers chaps, all noted,

been back out round the gun shops today, apparently one is limiting cci primers to 300 per customer to prevent hoarding,
so when to the other one as they had the N-133 powder i wanted, got a1kg tob for £116o_O
and 1000 primers:D realoading gear turned up so set the press up on the bench, saving the rest for tomorrow
 
cheers chaps, all noted,

been back out round the gun shops today, apparently one is limiting cci primers to 300 per customer to prevent hoarding,
so when to the other one as they had the N-133 powder i wanted, got a1kg tob for £116o_O
and 1000 primers:D realoading gear turned up so set the press up on the bench, saving the rest for tomorrow
What about the anorak?
 
Sounds like it's all coming together, good choice on the powder . £116 seems about right , 1 kg of propellant at 24( just for calculation not a recommendation) grains per round would give you 643 rounds at 18p per charge .
Just a rough guide -

Propellant = 18p
Primer = 10p
Bullet = 35p
Brass = 10p ( based on a 223 case costing 80p and assuming 8 reloads )

Total = 63p per round

Obviously, I haven't factored in equipment , sundries and time .
 
Sounds like it's all coming together, good choice on the powder . £116 seems about right , 1 kg of propellant at 24( just for calculation not a recommendation) grains per round would give you 643 rounds at 18p per charge .
Just a rough guide -

Propellant = 18p
Primer = 10p
Bullet = 35p
Brass = 10p ( based on a 223 case costing 80p and assuming 8 reloads )

Total = 63p per round

Obviously, I haven't factored in equipment , sundries and time .
thats brilliant mate, i was wondering how many rounds a 1Kg tub would do, my time costs nothing, and the equipment is neither here nor there really, and i paid £26 for 100 Hornady 55g V=max so 54p, and i have a a good couple of hundred empty cases that thankfully i saved, and a few mates who dont reload who are going to save there brass for me, so 44p:D
 
and it might help if companies all sang from the same hymn sheet,
Hornady book says a 55g bullet with N-133 powder , 19.8g, 20.8g 21.8g and max 22.7g
vihtavuori says with the same bullet and powder, start 21.5g and max load, 25g.
 
and it might help if companies all sang from the same hymn sheet,
Hornady book says a 55g bullet with N-133 powder , 19.8g, 20.8g 21.8g and max 22.7g
vihtavuori says with the same bullet and powder, start 21.5g and max load, 25g.
Different powder manufacturers have different lawyers/barristers, that drive how conservative the data is. Hence why you should "work up a load for your rifle". The books are just a guide (and in some cases, a pretty crappy one. Some are so conservative, that you end up wasting a lot of time, only to find that the load data is considerably lower than it needs to be. <looking at you Hornady>).

Case in point: Hornady shows 41.5grs of H4350 for their max load with a 140gr ELD-Match bullet. But when they sold the factory ammo with the load data on the box, it clearly stated 42.5grs of H4350. Smh...Hodgdon's is just as bad. Extremely conservative load data. Sierra has typically been pretty close to ground truth IME.

In retrospect, Hodgdon did have a good reason (initially) for having conservative load data. When they bought IMR and Alliant (I think Alliant that was the other one), none of the load data for their powders were evaluated the same. Some were measured in CUP, some in PSI. Some were 30 year old data that hadn't been revisited since, and some was fairly current data. It was a mix match of data, that ultimately required them to go back and test ALL powders against a single test method. Somewhere in there though, they got overly cautious, and it never reverted back to, no crap, real world test data. It got dumbed down.

I remember Muir and I being at SHOT Show one year, and the Hodgdon guy telling us this, as we were both at pressure gun/universal receiver maker's booth, ordering equipment for our respective customers' ballistics labs.

Anyways, food for thought...

ETA: Another thing to remember, is that they test to the twist rate of the original SAAMI spec. Which can (and does) hose up results. For example, go look in your load manual at .223. It clearly states that the test barrel is a 1-12 twist. Then look at the 80gr bullet load data. Now ask yourself this, how do they test an 80gr bullet, accurately, out of a 1-12 twist barrel. When I called them up asking, they said "The SAAMI test barrel is 1=12 twist, so that's what we test with." When I asked how they could test something that would have a bullet impact sideways onto the target with that twist rate, they said "The SAAMI test barrel is 1=12 twist, so that's what we test with." Reloading books are a guide. But understand what they are, and their limitations. As you gain experience reloading, you'll begin to see where things in those manuals tends to be far too conservative. For the record: DO NOT start with max loads; that's not what I'm implying. What I am saying is that some reloading manuals' max load data is no where near the max load. Especially in a modern firearm, in good condition. But you need to work up a load, in your rifle, to understand sometimes, what that max load really is.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top