Timney trigger install issue!

Rascal2018

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, i bought a timney from a member on here and all was fine and dandy!!
Install went ok ish (dropped the bolt stop spring) and tested it and its all fine.

Now my issue is that when i put the stock on, i can cycle the bolt fine but when i fire the trigger i can cycle the bolt again but its like the safety is engaged?
I have a video to show but cant see a way to upload to here?

Anyone had this before?

Thanks
 

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I had a similar thing when I fitted one in my custom remi with AI metal work, I found I needed to mill out the inlet for the trigger on the stock ( or should I say mill out the places where the pins/bolts,circlips go) to let it fit in freely, it used to cycle fine but no safety sometimes and sometimes is used to slam fire. Once I done this it was perfect
 
If you cant’t find an answer, Timney are great at helping out, a quick email giving them the details, and within a couple of days you’ll be sorted. I had an issue on my (then Ruger) sorted within 72 hours
 
I had a similar thing when I fitted one in my custom remi with AI metal work, I found I needed to mill out the inlet for the trigger on the stock ( or should I say mill out the places where the pins/bolts,circlips go) to let it fit in freely, it used to cycle fine but no safety sometimes and sometimes is used to slam fire. Once I done this it was perfect
I agree, looking at the image there doesn't seem to be enough clearance for the bulk of the safety to move freely in the mag well area.

I had the same issue with dropping a Tikka Tac A1 into a KRG bravo stock because of the extra safety feature (similar to the Sako 85 and 75) that normal T3s don't have. After emailing KRG they added a bit to their website to say that those particular trigger units didn't work with the Bravo chassis.

As your stock is just plastic I'd be inclined to remove some material with a small file. Firstly mark up the safety or the stock with some dye, assemble it, work the safety and bolt then disassemble and see where the dye has transferred to. That will show you where/what the problem is.
 
So after hours of work with a dremmel son measuring, testing, measuring and testing….. still nothing.

My buddy came over and looked at it….
“Have you tried shimming the bottom metal to see if its pinching it?”

2 mins later and one dead milk bottle we have the issue solved!
 
So after hours of work with a dremmel son measuring, testing, measuring and testing….. still nothing.

My buddy came over and looked at it….
“Have you tried shimming the bottom metal to see if its pinching it?”

2 mins later and one dead milk bottle we have the issue solved!
Having used a milk bottle to fix it, I'm tempted to say that your trigger will now break like glass....
:coat:
 
So after hours of work with a dremmel son measuring, testing, measuring and testing….. still nothing.

My buddy came over and looked at it….
“Have you tried shimming the bottom metal to see if its pinching it?”

2 mins later and one dead milk bottle we have the issue solved!
Now relieve bottom metal my milk bottle thickness and you will begood to go. Alternatively if the bottom metal now fits the stock better leave it alone.
 
Recently bought a rem 700 with apparently a Timney trigger installed. Haven't taken the AI stock off yet as need to buy a torque wrench.
Should i expect the trigger have any identifying marks on it to tell me what type it is. Also what is the torque setting for the action screw
 
Recently bought a rem 700 with apparently a Timney trigger installed. Haven't taken the AI stock off yet as need to buy a torque wrench.
Should i expect the trigger have any identifying marks on it to tell me what type it is. Also what is the torque setting for the action screw

You don't need a torque wrench. It's good practise to use one to make sure you don't over-torque/tighten the screws, but truth be told, I'm often too lazy to use mine!

It should clearly say 'Timney Triggers' on the side, take a photo and upload it on here. Should also be able to tell by looking at the trigger blade and top saftey (the newer ones have a 'T' marked on the thumb lever).
 
Ok, I've been thinking about this. it makes very little sense.. trigger is fine, works fine and safe, you take 'safe' off and fire a shot, then cycle bolt but safety is auto engaged... whilst it would be wonderful for rifle triggers to auto-engage after a shot (or not), that's not the case with this trigger. Firstly, it's a Timney, but not a new version, it looks like the finer 2 stage version IMHO. Secondly, if it is engaged after cycling the bolt, chances are that part of the bolt shroud on the RHS is catching the safety on the rearward travel of the bolt when cycling it, knocking the safety back into 'safe' position. The way I've dealt with this in the past on rifles is to pull the safety 'away' slightly, bending the metal just a touch, and if need be, just relieving the stock wall to allow that extra clearance.

food for thought.
 
OK. Just taken it apart and doesn't look like it's a timney. Does this look like a stock trigger (has a 3lb pull weight at present)
 

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