Torque wrench for scope

Go ahead buy one if you got the money, if you feel the need, if you got the space. We all go on about single use plastic, we all got too much stuff, single use stuff. Stuff that we thought we would need & dont, The world is adept at selling us this stuff. I look round the room I sit in, & there is bloody stuff everywhere. I got so much stuff that I cant remember where I put it when I need it, or even remember I had it. The best thing about stuff is getting rid of it, clear your space, clear your head. Old farming proverb, its not what you could do with that makes you money, its what you could make do without.
 
So from this thread I have gleaned, that some use a torque tool, others use a 1/4 turn plus a 6ft pole to pull up their screws, others just use “judgement“. All of which is acceptable.

But from an engineering perspective, where does one find the recommended torques for different sizes used on such things a magic 17inch/lbs or what ever seems a bit generic, when different thread diameters are used. Non of my supplier info quotes specific numbers.

In heavy engineering where it used to be flogging spanners and hammers you just use the bolt size and spec, and tables of torques are available, but lubricants used can make a huge difference to the required torque.

Are these fiddly little screws that old folk like me struggle to see if dropped really such a dark art?
When you are holding a thin walled tube in the lathe to take a lick out the bore the pressure is feel on the chuck key...

The same as you know that if you put any more pressure on a spanner the nut is going to sheer off so you make a plan...

Heating up a panel with a small oxy/ayc torch then using the flipper and dolly to shrink the high spot is feel...

Do that over a lifetime then trial by SD lol



@paul o'
 
It would appear that another thread on the SD has gone a little toxic . Which occasionally really surprises me , my reason being there are at least 2 others on this thread who like Tim are generous of spirit and ask little in return. I know this because it has been toward a friend on here , who has shared this with me . Good people .

So here's my Henry Kissenger moment , I spoke with Tim earlier, before I'd read the thread . It appears to me his post lacked context , his point, as I understand it , really is we don't need a lot of these things and we managed for years with just basic tools and by being tactile and we've all lost the confidence in our own abilities.

I'm as guilty as anyone for liking, what are essentially, toys and I have 2 torque wrenches. Guilty as charged .

I use a Sealey , just to answer the OP , make sure you use quality bits .

It's not my fight so I'll take my leave . You all have a nice day .
 
When you are holding a thin walled tube in the lathe to take a lick out the bore the pressure is feel on the chuck key...

The same as you know that if you put any more pressure on a spanner the nut is going to sheer off so you make a plan...

Heating up a panel with a small oxy/ayc torch then using the flipper and dolly to shrink the high spot is feel...

Do that over a lifetime then trial by SD lol



@paul o'
Im a big fan of a collet chuck for tube and such things, assuming I have the right collet, but I agree especially with soft stuff it is about feel.
Spanners are designed such a length so the average man can apply the correct torque for a normal spec nut and bolt, you would normally run into issues with excessive torque into aluminium for example, especially if the receptive part does not have thread inserts. But with gun stuff its little so much harder to judge. Especially if youve spent your life in the world of big stuff and hydraulic tensioning, hence why I asked.

As for oxy aceteylene knocking dings out, no thanks, I probably make it worse!
 
For me, accuracy and feel are one and the same, across the spectrum of tasks mucking about with metal, That three foot long cylinder head bolt cracker bar ... is it going to go or do I feel the need for heat?, Is that weld puddle going to collapse on me right this millisecond?, or do I pull back? That socket didn't feel quite right, is the fastener rounded? Horses for courses.
 
Im a big fan of a collet chuck for tube and such things, assuming I have the right collet, but I agree especially with soft stuff it is about feel.
Spanners are designed such a length so the average man can apply the correct torque for a normal spec nut and bolt, you would normally run into issues with excessive torque into aluminium for example, especially if the receptive part does not have thread inserts. But with gun stuff its little so much harder to judge. Especially if youve spent your life in the world of big stuff and hydraulic tensioning, hence why I asked.

As for oxy aceteylene knocking dings out, no thanks, I probably make it worse!
Off at a tangent time seeing how it's gone way off subject and turned into a blood feast .
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It's an art all but lost now in this gadget world we are a lost breed of dinosaurs :old:. I can remember the days on the English wheel making wings for a silver cloud or a Bristol or tensioning a wobbly roof skin/door panel with oxy ace and a wet towel knowing just the place to start peening it to tune it into a drum turning a flat sheet of ally into a watertight floating sphere as part of your panel beaters apprenticeship leaving grade! knowing by feel the one high spot on an otherwise to the eye a flat sheet. Today its knock it down fill it with Wag /plod aka body filler knock it back and lash it over with water base paint that got no guts or luster even the skill of paint Metameric colour matching needs a computer yesteryear you did it on a mixing scheme and a paint chart or microfilm slides :rofl:.

Yup it looks fine ok year later or less your see the Bodge repair done by a body tech ?? whatever that is!! and not by a trained sheet metal panel beater tradesman. Who's looked at a silver or Red car and seen the odd dark grey burnt red panel that's a computer match paint that has no clue as to what the rest of the old sun ,salt and road miles has done to the factory paint tints .

To the OP Sorry For your post going south it was a request for help and a good one at that and was yet again turned into a red October just get a wheeler T/R there cheap and they work well and also a set of good 'T' hex and Allan inserts to fit your bolts etc . :tiphat:
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To the others that feel it's good to have a dig at someone's skills that they can only dream or read about! why not just Leave Us old gits to our ways as we will adapt but never change but will always know how to overcome :norty:.
 
Sorry if someone has suggested this, I havn't read all four pages. I simply use an allen key on scopes. Turn the narrow end as hard as you can by fingers alone. If you do it the other way, you will get more leverage and over-tighten it.
 
Sorry if someone has suggested this, I havn't read all four pages. I simply use an allen key on scopes. Turn the narrow end as hard as you can by fingers alone. If you do it the other way, you will get more leverage and over-tighten it.
You Sir get a gold star for your dexterity :tiphat:
 
Off at a tangent time seeing how it's gone way off subject and turned into a blood feast .
------------------------
It's an art all but lost now in this gadget world we are a lost breed of dinosaurs :old:. I can remember the days on the English wheel making wings for a silver cloud or a Bristol or tensioning a wobbly roof skin/door panel with oxy ace and a wet towel knowing just the place to start peening it to tune it into a drum turning a flat sheet of ally into a watertight floating sphere as part of your panel beaters apprenticeship leaving grade! knowing by feel the one high spot on an otherwise to the eye a flat sheet. Today its knock it down fill it with Wag /plod aka body filler knock it back and lash it over with water base paint that got no guts or luster even the skill of paint Metameric colour matching needs a computer yesteryear you did it on a mixing scheme and a paint chart or microfilm slides :rofl:.

Yup it looks fine ok year later or less your see the Bodge repair done by a body tech ?? whatever that is!! and not by a trained sheet metal panel beater tradesman. Who's looked at a silver or Red car and seen the odd dark grey burnt red panel that's a computer match paint that has no clue as to what the rest of the old sun ,salt and road miles has done to the factory paint tints .

To the OP Sorry For your post going south it was a request for help and a good one at that and was yet again turned into a red October just get a wheeler T/R there cheap and they work well and also a set of good 'T' hex and Allan inserts to fit your bolts etc . :tiphat:
-----
To the others that feel it's good to have a dig at someone's skills that they can only dream or read about! why not just Leave Us old gits to our ways as we will adapt but never change but will always know how to overcome :norty:.
And I thought I was the only one who looked at the past with rose tinted glasses.

Now I see you answered the very question I have back-in 2014 and quote your data source, which is good enough for me. The data source gives confidence in the numbers quoted. Unlike the varying generic figures quoted elsewhere in the google!

Right on that note I need to go and charge the accumulator so I can listen to the news on the wireless, once Ive managed to-get the Lister running with the celluloid starter!
 
Yup I have an old wheeler T/R driver under the bench from way back in the sako days as i don't use them soft optilock sako/tikka rings anymore so it's not in use! Also
Got a nice valveset Ferguson radiogram in the music room smells of gods armpits when it gets hot hmmmmm
 
Off at a tangent time seeing how it's gone way off subject and turned into a blood feast .
------------------------
It's an art all but lost now in this gadget world we are a lost breed of dinosaurs :old:. I can remember the days on the English wheel making wings for a silver cloud or a Bristol or tensioning a wobbly roof skin/door panel with oxy ace and a wet towel knowing just the place to start peening it to tune it into a drum turning a flat sheet of ally into a watertight floating sphere as part of your panel beaters apprenticeship leaving grade! knowing by feel the one high spot on an otherwise to the eye a flat sheet. Today its knock it down fill it with Wag /plod aka body filler knock it back and lash it over with water base paint that got no guts or luster even the skill of paint Metameric colour matching needs a computer yesteryear you did it on a mixing scheme and a paint chart or microfilm slides :rofl:.

Yup it looks fine ok year later or less your see the Bodge repair done by a body tech ?? whatever that is!! and not by a trained sheet metal panel beater tradesman. Who's looked at a silver or Red car and seen the odd dark grey burnt red panel that's a computer match paint that has no clue as to what the rest of the old sun ,salt and road miles has done to the factory paint tints .

To the OP Sorry For your post going south it was a request for help and a good one at that and was yet again turned into a red October just get a wheeler T/R there cheap and they work well and also a set of good 'T' hex and Allan inserts to fit your bolts etc . :tiphat:
-----
To the others that feel it's good to have a dig at someone's skills that they can only dream or read about! why not just Leave Us old gits to our ways as we will adapt but never change but will always know how to overcome :norty:.
Paul...you can't speak about hand skills as there is no place for it on here :popcorn:

@Rory
 
Paul...you can't speak about hand skills as there is no place for it on here :popcorn:

@Rory
tumblr_mmcwbufLmC1r5xzspo1_400.jpg
 
Much appreciated I can only put the 0.241 moa or better down to the way I do things !. l know :smug: but it's just a skill I have to hand .
 
I have a Sealey rarely use it. The ones that are sold to cyclist are good and much cheaper. Got my Sealey frpm CPC.

D
 
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