Vintage mitutoyo calipers?

deerstalker.308

Well-Known Member
Are they worth what the eBay prices suggest or are they just fanciful?
Are specific model numbers worth more? I’ve just found a set in amongst a load of tools I inherited model number 505-633-50 metric and marked as being “shock proof”
Struggling to find that exact matching model or at least have found one but it appears different (maybe broken) as it doesn’t appear to have a cover to the dial?
Any advice appreciated.
 

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I have an imperial version of the same thing. What hype? The only calipers I see being hyped are budget or Lidl versions, which may be tolerable. I doubt anyone buys a Mitutoyo caliper and wishes they'd bought something a bit less good.
What do the ebay prices suggest? Mine was new old stock and apparently cost £78 at some date back when they still used those little price stickers.
 
They may need a new lens if missing one. The dial type are great and don’t pretend to be more accurate than they are. Digital ones make you think they are super accurate
 
They may need a new lens if missing one. The dial type are great and don’t pretend to be more accurate than they are. Digital ones make you think they are super accurate
No these are perfect (bar an ever so slight scuff on the lens) the only comparative ones I could see of the same serial number was without said lens which had me questioning, they were after over £200 on eBay!!
I did find a modern (still same serial number but visible more plastic parts) available to buy new for £170, seems crazy which was why I was really querying the seemingly cult status of them?


 
I have an imperial version of the same thing. What hype? The only calipers I see being hyped are budget or Lidl versions, which may be tolerable. I doubt anyone buys a Mitutoyo caliper and wishes they'd bought something a bit less good.
What do the ebay prices suggest? Mine was new old stock and apparently cost £78 at some date back when they still used those little price stickers.
Over £200 which seemed ludicrous
 
That does seem ...er....extemely optimistic, unless they had a particilar high degree of accuracy. +/- 0.02mm are £130 new from Cromwell tools
This was why I posted, I mean if they’re worth that much they’re far beyond my needs and I’d sell them, but I did suspect that was a somewhat ambitious price albeit until I saw the new version, and wondered if the old commanded a premium for being all metal and of an era where “stuff” was made to last.
 
This was why I posted, I mean if they’re worth that much they’re far beyond my needs and I’d sell them, but I did suspect that was a somewhat ambitious price albeit until I saw the new version, and wondered if the old commanded a premium for being all metal and of an era where “stuff” was made to last.
Rack and pinion types can suffer from grit in the rack, I have a set from an auction (same brand) that have skipped a tooth.
So only use them as a reference. I have 2 Mtyo in vernier scale up too 800mm also a Swiss inspection set in stainless @600mm
Then my daily set 200 mm which are dro but not the expensive ones which are not affected by coolant.

I would not use them in what I do as I would be going back to closed to see if they zeroed each time.
 
What do you mean skipped a tooth? The dial won't line up to zero any more? If so, that is easily fixed. ~Muir
 
Always wondered why you need calipers for reloading a hunting rifle. All the measurements you need are right in front of you, on the rifle itself... (hint, the chamber and magazine...)
 
Always wondered why you need calipers for reloading a hunting rifle. All the measurements you need are right in front of you, on the rifle itself... (hint, the chamber and magazine...)
Ah, you use them for measuring things like case length, cartridge length etc. Plus it’s nice not to have to chamber every loaded round when you’ve finished it to make sure they fit in your rifle. Do you actually not use them slash?
 
Ah, you use them for measuring things like case length, cartridge length etc. Plus it’s nice not to have to chamber every loaded round when you’ve finished it to make sure they fit in your rifle. Do you actually not use them slash?

Case length - trim to minimum setting on Lee gauges no need for measuring unless you are doing something special will brass like wildcatting

Cartridge length- fit to the magazine, unless you are measuring each and every cartridge? :doh:

For COAL just make dummy rounds and set seating die accordingly once the magazine fit is determined.

Chamber- checking with a gauge? Why not use the bolt and chamber itself to set up correctly? Firing pin is easy enough to remove. Have different rifles in the same chambering so prefer to have two seperate die sets for each rifle.

Would like to see some of these benchrest deer rifles people are supposedly toting about...
 
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