Zeroing the HMR

You are well pleased then musketeer. You do need a very good rest to use 16x power,.
like a high seat.
Half inch high at 100 yards is ideal.
 
Yep all cartridges are different in terms of velocity and bullet weight so these primary or secondary zeros vary between them all. For my centrefires, this method would see you zeroing around the 65yd mark (from memory) for a 100yd zero which is still quite a distance to bore sight with ease on a small target. I tend to still bore sight and put one shot on paper at closer ranges and then work out what the elevation adjustment is for my required 100yd zero once lateral adjustements have been made.

Obviously easier to bore sight at 40ish yds than 100yds with the small breakdown A4 target holder that I have in my rifle bag, so zero can be had in 3 shots (incl the test shot at 100yds) as long as you correctly calculate how many more clicks you need to zero at a shorter distance. So for MOA adjustment on a scope at 42yds, you would need nearly 2.5 x the clicks that you would need at 100yds to see the same POI shift on target. I always draw a basic thick crosshair on my targets and use a ruler to mark 1" increments. That way I can just look through the scope and see exactly what adjustment I need to make. 1 shot on paper, adjust to get bang on at 42 yds (for the HMR) and then another shot to confirm. Move out to 100yds, shoot again to confirm then go home.

That is fine for the HMR where I am looking for an inch or so grouping at 100yds but for CF's where ultimate precision is needed well beyond 100yds, I would take more shots and finely adjust to enable small groups to be shot repeatedly. Depends on the rifle application.

For the HMR though, 42yds is a good distance to zero.
I buy 3-4 different brands of ammo then stick with the best ,I have recently zeroed my cz 17hmr and cz452 .22 at 100yds so pleased with the hmr I am going to use it more than ever, couple of years ago there was guy at my club who said there was issues with some 17hmr rounds (slight fractures on the cases) and he had one that jammed did'nt realize, chambered again fired and it blew his mag to bits ,he got compensated for the gun damage, but would not fire the hmr again, me I keep the barrel well oiled with my own concoction ,oil based and proven to leave a film of lubricant proven under Laboratory conditions and compared with other lubricant products i.e oils.
 
If you have not used the rifle for a while and it has a wooden stock, check the barrel is still free floating. I found in my HMR like others that sometimes the rifle likes different rounds.
 
I buy 3-4 different brands of ammo then stick with the best ,I have recently zeroed my cz 17hmr and cz452 .22 at 100yds so pleased with the hmr I am going to use it more than ever, couple of years ago there was guy at my club who said there was issues with some 17hmr rounds (slight fractures on the cases) and he had one that jammed did'nt realize, chambered again fired and it blew his mag to bits ,he got compensated for the gun damage, but would not fire the hmr again, me I keep the barrel well oiled with my own concoction ,oil based and proven to leave a film of lubricant proven under Laboratory conditions and compared with other lubricant products i.e oils.
Plenty of posts on the plague of 17 split cases and what can happen if you fire one 💥💥.
Please do check these posts out but also check each round before you leave home and if you find any with splits either discard them or take them back from whence you bought them.
🦊🦊
 
Okay guys I’m having a mare…. I went and re-zeroed my .17hmr today after reading this post, I zeroed it at 42 metres great grouping all 4 rounds touching. I then went out to 100m and I was over 4” high?

Hornady V-Max 17gr
CZ455 16” barrel and then sac moderator?
 
Okay guys I’m having a mare…. I went and re-zeroed my .17hmr today after reading this post, I zeroed it at 42 metres great grouping all 4 rounds touching. I then went out to 100m and I was over 4” high?

Hornady V-Max 17gr
CZ455 16” barrel and then sac moderator?

I had pretty much the exact same today trying the 40 yard zero and then checking at 100.
 
I had pretty much the exact same today trying the 40 yard zero and then checking at 100.
Next time zero it at your desired range then fire 3shots at a fresh target from 25yards or whatever is easiest for you. Take a fonepic of the (say) 25 yard target and you now have an easy way of replicating your desired zero - I set all my rifles at 100 - just don't like all that walking…..
🦊🦊
IMG_2108.webp
 
Zero at 42yds exactly. The HMR should put shots on top of another another at that range. It will then be bang on at 100yds.

Makes zeroing NV scopes much easier as well as normal scopes with low magnification ranges.
Could you expand on this a bit, please? Are you referring to just the HMR or other calibres as well?
 
Assuming I've not made a biblical error on my data input this is my table for the CCI TNT 17gr in my CZ455, 20" barrel, zeroed at 50m

20240413_181610.jpg
 
The program for this is 'Hawke Chairgun Pro'.
I use it to determine the 'short' zero on all my calibers/projectiles.
The key is to get the bullets speed correct, if you over estimate, the 100 zero is high, under estimate and it's low.

 
Variable depending on several factors but this is a good illustration:-
“Making some assumptions here. Velocity 2650fps, Bullet weight 17gn, Bullet BC .115, Scope height above bore 1.97"
At 25yds the point of impact will be .87 inches below your aim point.. The bullet will remain below your aim point until it gets to 55yds.. It rises to a maximum of .16" above aim point at 85yds and drops back to zero at 100yds. From 50-100yds there's only 1/4" either way.”.
You might also find this article on Point Blank and Maximum Point Blank useful….
🦊🦊
 
Yep all cartridges are different in terms of velocity and bullet weight so these primary or secondary zeros vary between them all. For my centrefires, this method would see you zeroing around the 65yd mark (from memory) for a 100yd zero which is still quite a distance to bore sight with ease on a small target. I tend to still bore sight and put one shot on paper at closer ranges and then work out what the elevation adjustment is for my required 100yd zero once lateral adjustements have been made.

Obviously easier to bore sight at 40ish yds than 100yds with the small breakdown A4 target holder that I have in my rifle bag, so zero can be had in 3 shots (incl the test shot at 100yds) as long as you correctly calculate how many more clicks you need to zero at a shorter distance. So for MOA adjustment on a scope at 42yds, you would need nearly 2.5 x the clicks that you would need at 100yds to see the same POI shift on target. I always draw a basic thick crosshair on my targets and use a ruler to mark 1" increments. That way I can just look through the scope and see exactly what adjustment I need to make. 1 shot on paper, adjust to get bang on at 42 yds (for the HMR) and then another shot to confirm. Move out to 100yds, shoot again to confirm then go home.

That is fine for the HMR where I am looking for an inch or so grouping at 100yds but for CF's where ultimate precision is needed well beyond 100yds, I would take more shots and finely adjust to enable small groups to be shot repeatedly. Depends on the rifle application.

For the HMR though, 42yds is a good distance to zero.
Sorry for the highjack.
Try Mytargets.com for some free targets you just print off. They have 1's with 1" squares on them.
 
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