I had had one years ago and it was brilliant! It had offset teeth and worked very well on Big Red. It was that good I can't remember who I leant it to to try! Haven't seen one lately so maybe it's changed?
What bone saw to get?
- Thread starter FrenchieBoy
- Start date
I had had one years ago and it was brilliant! It had offset teeth and worked very well on Big Red. It was that good I can't remember who I leant it to to try! Haven't seen one lately so maybe it's changed?
That's a good point I hadn't noticed but never caused me a problem as I always run the tripe knife down first and also used on boar. Just compared to my Gerber and that has no offset either but never used that one.
Paul
Monkey Spanker
Well-Known Member
The Gerber type blades don't need an offset. If you look closely you will see that the toothed edge of the blade is slightly thicker than the back edge of the blade. It is ground that way to allow smooth passage through cut material. The best saw I ever had was the old style yellow handled one from the BDS. I think Berg now has mine!
I haven't tried the new ones with integrated gut hook, but they look quite good. Anyone used one?
MS
berg
Well-Known Member
I have indeed and I used it on 8 fallow I got yesterday and it worked treat it took half the time it took Gareth with a sagen saw thanks again ms its al I use unless I forget to bring it
bigoak
Well-Known Member
FrenchieBoy
Well-Known Member
What kind of question is that to ask what meat saw to get.
wee all know get one that will cut metal of course
Maybe some of us prefer to have the right tool for the job!
2130martin
Well-Known Member
If you know what you are doing,the weight of the gut pulls the pluck out for you. Never suspend though personally,by the time you lift it up it can be gralloched And done on the floor.
In reply to Frenchie it sounds like you dont always split the chest in the field,i would say dont bother and leave to do in the larder if necessary and save on kit and contamination issues.
FrenchieBoy
Well-Known Member
You have made a reasonable assumption there!
I didn't use to split the chest in the field and nor did I used to do "suspended garllochs"! However recently I have found that a suspended gralloch is more comfortable for me (Less bending) and a bit cleaner. I found that splitting the chest made the suspended gralloch a little easier. I have (Up to now) been splitting the chest with one of my knives (I carry 3 or 4 in my stalking bag, all razor sharp) and not had any real problems doing so, but just to err on the side of safety I thought that a small bone saw (Of some type) would make life both safer (Less chance of slipping and sticking one of my knives in my leg or wherever) and also save the edge on my knife, hence the reason for asking which bone saw might be best.
I do tend to work as cleanly as possible when carrying out a gralloch (Which I find easier with a suspended gralloch) so I don't believe that I have any issues with contamination. The knives that I am using for the gralloch get laid out on a polythene (Bin) bag so that they do not touch the muddy ground.
I'm not saying that either a gralloch on the ground or a suspended gralloch is the right or wrong way, I believe that it is down to the stalker the who is doing the gralloch to decide which method suits them best. In my case time is usually not an issue and I find that a suspended gralloch is easier and suits me best!
2130martin
Well-Known Member
As you said there is no right or wrong way.
Do you mean one of these?
Axis Deer Management Breast Bone Saw - Knife Handle
If so, I have one on the way.
To date I have had:
> a Sagen saw - the handle of which has started to crack (will maybe see what their Replacement Warranty is like). The blade does gain a patina pretty quick!
> a Casstrom saw - the blade of which broke on its second outing. Casstrom sent me a replacement blade.
> a Dave Stretton saw - okay, but I find it a bit unwieldy for roe and muntjac, which are the main species I hunt
I'll be interested to see what the BDS saw is like. If it turns up before the weekend I'll try to knock up a sheath for both it and a tripe knife that I also have.
Monkey Spanker
Well-Known Member
Yes that's the new version. I'm not sure about the addition of the gut hook. It looks a bit small to be effective and means that the blade has to go a long way into the beast before you can start to cut? I'd probably grind the end back to the start of the saw blade like the older version. As stated though, I haven't tried it so I'll be interested to hear how you get on with it and may then buy one. I do use a separate gut hook for un-zipping but it has a very wide gape which prevents clogging.
Look forward to your review. Happy hunting!
MS
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
Sagen use"s a carbon steel blade so rust could be an issue, so I use a plasterboard saw as it is also carbon steel but costs peanuts.
View attachment 68195
View attachment 68195
Monkey Spanker
Well-Known Member
Not sure that tip would be too rumen friendly??
They also cut on both push and pull stroke which is not deemed as good practice from a meat hygiene perspective. I do have one of those - a Stanley 'Fat Max', which I use for plasterboard!
MS
AN DU RU FOX
Well-Known Member
Thats what i did two weeks ago,2pound odd, and the blade locks,
FrenchieBoy
Well-Known Member
What a coincidence, that is exactly what I have been using recently and it works quite well for me. (I last used it yesterday to gralloch the last doe of the season from one of my permissions which I have just skinned and butchered today)
My only thought is that it can be a bit of a job to clean it thoroughly after each use.
Glad I am not the only one I have a couple, just give it a pre clean with a scrubbing brush and then into the dish washer.
Initially the blade is too sharp, might be best to cut some timber up with it just to take the ragged edges off and then fine.
I have also got an old sandvik/Bancho folder and now the blade is much duller it does an excellent job on roe.
No need to spend a fortune on a special saw, Lidl to the rescue yet again
D
Initially the blade is too sharp, might be best to cut some timber up with it just to take the ragged edges off and then fine.
I have also got an old sandvik/Bancho folder and now the blade is much duller it does an excellent job on roe.
No need to spend a fortune on a special saw, Lidl to the rescue yet again
D
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