Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Picking up on a comment by EJG in the discussion on Shulz & Larsen vs Sako 85 that there is no perfect stalking rifle opening up a discussion on what a good stalking rifle should be:
Here are my thoughts on the matter.
Barrel - medium weight sporter in profile. Not superlight, nor heavy weight either. I like 24". Not overly worried re brand of barrel, provided its well made and true. I like a bit of thickness around the chamber and for it then to taper off. I don't like the very concave style you see on some rifles. I would have it threaded, but with an invisible cap.
Stock - I like a good classic style with a longer fore - end and a reasonably open grip - I have long hands so not a fan of tight radius and vertical grips. Foreend section - I like round or oval in shape and not too skinny. Nice rounded tip that is cut a 90 degrees to barrel. Straight comb, or a bit of a monte carlo, but want the top of butt pad to be in line with barrel so recoil comes straight back. Not overly fussed re cheek pieces, but if there is one more the Remington style, and definitely not the squared off hogs back germanic style. Stock material - well I do like good walnut, but can see the benefits of laminate, or synthetic. Provided its bedded well and accurately not overly fussed as to the type of bedding, but do want a bedding system that allows stock to be removed and replaced for transport and cleaning that doesn't require re-zeroing etc.
Action - Has to have the handle on the left hand side. I think I prefer a control round feed action aka the Mauser 98, but provided its well timed the cartridge not a lot wrong with a push feed. Whether it has two, three or more lugs - moot point, provided the lugs are properly cut etc. Bolt needs to be well polished so moves freely, but there also needs to be some give to all it to work with a bit of dust, ice etc.
But could be very easily persuaded to use either a nice kipplauf break action or a falling block.
Safety - I want an easy to use and silent safety that blocks the firing pin. A three position safety on the bolt shroud is ideal. Blaser sliding cocking system has its merits, but I hate the plastic (ok Polymer) feel of the standard versions.
Trigger - A single stage crisp pull of c 3 to 4lbs is ideal for me. I don't like to light a trigger. A push forward to set trigger is nice touch, provided the main pull is very good.
Magazine - first choice is the rotary magazine of the older Mannlicher Schoeneurs - the ones with the bolt handle half way down the action. They are beautiful to use. Later Polymer ones, aka Mannlicher Model M and Blaser system have their merits. Failing that a good double stack Mauser type fixed magazine with an opening floorplate with a good latch that doesn't open unless told to do so. It needs to hold five rounds - ie more than enough for days stalking, and if you ever need a few rounds they are there. Worst is the single stack detacheable mag with 3 rounds - get into a hind and a follower - bang, bang and then one follow shot which you pull and you now scrabbling around with numb fingers in the snow trying to reload it.
Sights - 42mm objective is a good compromise between bulk and brightness. Magnification - well the old standby of 6x is always good, but for closer work a wide field of view can be helpful. And there are times when a bit more mag can useful for a small target such as fox. A reasonable fine No 4 type reticle is good. If it's a variable prefer it in the 2nd focal plane. If I can have a red dot that's probably useful, but not at the expense of a large additional turret, or a carbunkle on the eye piece.
I would also want open sights that are usable, and if I had a good detachable system I would add a second 1-4x20 wide angle scope for close range work.
Scope Mounts - bases need to be machined as part of the action. I do think I prefer the swing mount as neater, but failing that a good warne style with downtails machined on the action is strong. I don't aluminium on scope tubes, but mounts and rings should be off good quality steel.
Sling fitments - I don't like studs on the forend. I much prefer a barrel band sling attachment half way between muzzle tip and end of forend - A rifle is so much more comfortable to carry this way. If done properly and you don't tension the sling when shooting it's not going to affect point of impact. I can't help feeling African hunters have something to offer - slings are a pain in the bush and thus they carry the rifle on the shoulder without a sling. If you hunt with a pack then no reason why you cannot have a slip in the pack or some carrying system on the pack.
Finish - all metal work should be properly blued. A good blue lasts well, ages well. Ceramic finishes are fine until they get scratched / chipped and then look tatty. Stainless - well stainless still rusts and tarnishes and unless cerakoted or similar tends to shine a bit.
All up weight - about 8 and a little bit pounds.
Calibre - simple 7x57, 7x64 or 30-06 if a magazine, 7x65R if single shot.
Here are my thoughts on the matter.
Barrel - medium weight sporter in profile. Not superlight, nor heavy weight either. I like 24". Not overly worried re brand of barrel, provided its well made and true. I like a bit of thickness around the chamber and for it then to taper off. I don't like the very concave style you see on some rifles. I would have it threaded, but with an invisible cap.
Stock - I like a good classic style with a longer fore - end and a reasonably open grip - I have long hands so not a fan of tight radius and vertical grips. Foreend section - I like round or oval in shape and not too skinny. Nice rounded tip that is cut a 90 degrees to barrel. Straight comb, or a bit of a monte carlo, but want the top of butt pad to be in line with barrel so recoil comes straight back. Not overly fussed re cheek pieces, but if there is one more the Remington style, and definitely not the squared off hogs back germanic style. Stock material - well I do like good walnut, but can see the benefits of laminate, or synthetic. Provided its bedded well and accurately not overly fussed as to the type of bedding, but do want a bedding system that allows stock to be removed and replaced for transport and cleaning that doesn't require re-zeroing etc.
Action - Has to have the handle on the left hand side. I think I prefer a control round feed action aka the Mauser 98, but provided its well timed the cartridge not a lot wrong with a push feed. Whether it has two, three or more lugs - moot point, provided the lugs are properly cut etc. Bolt needs to be well polished so moves freely, but there also needs to be some give to all it to work with a bit of dust, ice etc.
But could be very easily persuaded to use either a nice kipplauf break action or a falling block.
Safety - I want an easy to use and silent safety that blocks the firing pin. A three position safety on the bolt shroud is ideal. Blaser sliding cocking system has its merits, but I hate the plastic (ok Polymer) feel of the standard versions.
Trigger - A single stage crisp pull of c 3 to 4lbs is ideal for me. I don't like to light a trigger. A push forward to set trigger is nice touch, provided the main pull is very good.
Magazine - first choice is the rotary magazine of the older Mannlicher Schoeneurs - the ones with the bolt handle half way down the action. They are beautiful to use. Later Polymer ones, aka Mannlicher Model M and Blaser system have their merits. Failing that a good double stack Mauser type fixed magazine with an opening floorplate with a good latch that doesn't open unless told to do so. It needs to hold five rounds - ie more than enough for days stalking, and if you ever need a few rounds they are there. Worst is the single stack detacheable mag with 3 rounds - get into a hind and a follower - bang, bang and then one follow shot which you pull and you now scrabbling around with numb fingers in the snow trying to reload it.
Sights - 42mm objective is a good compromise between bulk and brightness. Magnification - well the old standby of 6x is always good, but for closer work a wide field of view can be helpful. And there are times when a bit more mag can useful for a small target such as fox. A reasonable fine No 4 type reticle is good. If it's a variable prefer it in the 2nd focal plane. If I can have a red dot that's probably useful, but not at the expense of a large additional turret, or a carbunkle on the eye piece.
I would also want open sights that are usable, and if I had a good detachable system I would add a second 1-4x20 wide angle scope for close range work.
Scope Mounts - bases need to be machined as part of the action. I do think I prefer the swing mount as neater, but failing that a good warne style with downtails machined on the action is strong. I don't aluminium on scope tubes, but mounts and rings should be off good quality steel.
Sling fitments - I don't like studs on the forend. I much prefer a barrel band sling attachment half way between muzzle tip and end of forend - A rifle is so much more comfortable to carry this way. If done properly and you don't tension the sling when shooting it's not going to affect point of impact. I can't help feeling African hunters have something to offer - slings are a pain in the bush and thus they carry the rifle on the shoulder without a sling. If you hunt with a pack then no reason why you cannot have a slip in the pack or some carrying system on the pack.
Finish - all metal work should be properly blued. A good blue lasts well, ages well. Ceramic finishes are fine until they get scratched / chipped and then look tatty. Stainless - well stainless still rusts and tarnishes and unless cerakoted or similar tends to shine a bit.
All up weight - about 8 and a little bit pounds.
Calibre - simple 7x57, 7x64 or 30-06 if a magazine, 7x65R if single shot.