.22LR - the great clean or not to clean debate

User00033

Well-Known Member
So I recognise that this has been done to death for as long at the .22LR has been with us. All of 136 years...

I've lost count of the number of times I've read "I never clean it" or "only after 5,000 rounds" or such like. I guess I've always struggle with that concept.

I have a CZ455 which I've shown you fellas before. It's a varmint barrel, pillar and epoxy bedded into a Boyds laminate stock. I use it exclusively for pest control, shooting CCI Standard Velocity at a long term average of 1065ps, which handily is very close to what it says on the box (1070fps).

Ranges vary - rarely sub-40m and often around 70-80m and sometimes out to 120-130m. I take my time and range my targets very carefully, and use a detailed MRAD reticle for holds, and I rarely miss. However, after a period of time, say 200-300 shots, I'll start missing the occasional magpie or rabbit. Then I'll start getting the occasional crazy flier which in summer is easy to see because I can spot the splash behind the target. OK, time for a clean.

Here's a good example of what a good old fashioned scrub with Sweets 7.62 and a bronze brush does to my CZ. The first two fouling shots are marked #1 and #2, then shots 3-10 are into one ragged hole measured ~12mm across centre-to-centre of the two most divergent shots. That equates to 0.69MOA at 60m.

So not looking to start the debate again, just observing that a good scrub doesn't do my CZ any harm and it reigns in the fliers pretty much completely. Looking at the two tables below, you can see how the clean has flattened the extreme spread from around 37 fps to 19fps, i.e. halved it, and cut SD from 11.6 to 7 whilst maintaining a pretty close average velocity. I can live with an ES of 19 for cheap ammunition, as that is only 1/4" at 100m, and the bunny is still dead.

This kind of outcome is mirrored by my mate Phil's identical CZ455 with the same ammo.

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 12.23.50 PM.jpeg

Dirty on the left, clean on the right.
CZ dirty.JPG CZ clean.JPG
 
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Shame you didn't photograph a 10 shot group before you decided to clean it.

Good point! But I don’t shoot paper unless it’s an accuracy test, which is usually only after I’ve cleaned it. But next time it loses the plot, I will do a paper test too.

FWIW, the fliers before cleaning were a full minute-of-rabbit and then some. On paper at 60m, I’d estimate 100-130mm off the POA, so what would mean a head shot bunny gets to live another day.
 
Bogtrotter, you are making me feel I am ocd with my barrel cleaning, as I do it every year regardless.

Maybe I am just a cleaning obsessive, I also wash my car once a year - even if it has just rained !
 
The first thing I see wrong is cleaning the bore. Second is using Sweets 7,62 which is expressly made for copper fouling. Next is the use of a bronze brush....which is eaten by the Sweets. What possesses you to treat a good rifle that way? :(

This is an out of the case , 10 shot group off of a bipod at 50 yards using my Tikka T1x which, despite having been fired at least 2000 times since purchase, has never had the barrel cleaned. The one to the left is me trying to shoot around my cataract.:doh:~Muir
choke4r.jpg
 
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the old time Aussie pro rabbit shooters SHOT MILLIONS of rabbits with 22 rf`s and i doubt if they ever cleaned them. I admit to have never cleaned my 22`s in my whole life...lol

As an aside do you remember the old Stirling .22 ammo ad in the Sporting Shooter mag where they showed a pro shooter with 666 rabbits he shot for one night.
 
I think it is also testament to the amount of rabbits in Oz before the Myxo. Nonetheless over a brick of ammo for th enight is plenty

Brick..we get our 22`s in bricks of 500
 
The first thing I see wrong is cleaning the bore. Second is using Sweets 7,62 which is expressly made for copper fouling. Next is the use of a bronze brush....which is eaten by the Sweets. What possesses you to treat a good rifle that way? :(

This is an out of the case , 10 shot group off of a bipod at 50 yards using my Tikka T1x which, despite having been fired at least 2000 times since purchase, has never had the barrel cleaned. The one to the left is me trying to shoot around my cataract.:doh:~Muir

It’s all good Muir, as far as I’m concerned it’s a tool, it only gets used for pest control, doesn’t shoot point and whatnot. It needs to work well and this makes it work well. The Sweets says copper, lead deposits, and I get a shitload of lead out.

We shooters always say “every rifle is different” but there’s a bunch here that are exactly the same give or take, and they like a good harsh scrub! Heathens....
 
Excellent but you stated standard velocity but your readings are v similar to Eley Sub sonics but far more consistent. Rarely clean my Annie but need to be aware of crude build up in the over bore which can build up to such a state it can effect accuracy. If I do clean it then its a bore snake and a de clag of the muzzle.

D
 
I always clean my rimfire after I use it and it still shoots great with a clean bore.
I dont go mad i just run a few solvent soaked patches through it followed by a couple of dry ones and then apply a light coating of oil.
I had a look at the barrel through the bore scope the other day and I could clearly see a carbon ring around the chamber area. I gave the area a good scrub with some isso paste which removed it.
When I shot the rifle afterwards i did notice the rounds clambering a lot smoother than before. The rifle is a sako quad which is supposed to have a match chamber so removing the carbon ring did help.
We get a lot of rain here and I have seen a few rusted and pitted bores in my time so I always clean my rifles before putting them away.
 
Excellent but you stated standard velocity but your readings are v similar to Eley Sub sonics but far more consistent. Rarely clean my Annie but need to be aware of crude build up in the over bore which can build up to such a state it can effect accuracy. If I do clean it then its a bore snake and a de clag of the muzzle.

CCI Standard Velocity are subs.
 
I tend to just run a boresnake through mine every now and then. I take the bolt out and have a look through the barrel. If I think the build up of crap is too heavy, I give it a quick pull through
 
It’s all good Muir, as far as I’m concerned it’s a tool, it only gets used for pest control, doesn’t shoot point and whatnot. It needs to work well and this makes it work well. The Sweets says copper, lead deposits, and I get a shitload of lead out.

We shooters always say “every rifle is different” but there’s a bunch here that are exactly the same give or take, and they like a good harsh scrub! Heathens....
Heathens indeed! :) You are, of course, free to clean what you wish, how you wish, but I wanted to illustrate the difference between a rifle that has never been cleaned, and one that was just cleaned. As the example you posted, it is best illustrated by shooting a group cold. My rifles don't require a few shots to get on track. For vermin pest control, I would think you'd want a little better than having your first shot hit someplace within two inches of where you were aiming. I try to never clean my .22 bores but if I get foreign matter in there such as dust and field debris, I use the old Anschutz method recommended for their match rifles. A scant drop of oil on a patch pushed through the bore and followed by a few dry patches. That's it. You might try it as an alternative for that nice CZ -which is being prevented from giving you it's best accuracy by such a harsh cleaning regimen. :(

If you are using CCI Subs, the crap load of lead you get out is probably mixed with a lot of priming compound residue. I just quit using it entirely. Swing by my house and I'll give you 1100 rounds of it.~Muir
 
Heathens indeed! :) You are, of course, free to clean what you wish, how you wish, but I wanted to illustrate the difference between a rifle that has never been cleaned, and one that was just cleaned. As the example you posted, it is best illustrated by shooting a group cold. My rifles don't require a few shots to get on track. For vermin pest control, I would think you'd want a little better than having your first shot hit someplace within two inches of where you were aiming. I try to never clean my .22 bores but if I get foreign matter in there such as dust and field debris, I use the old Anschutz method recommended for their match rifles. A scant drop of oil on a patch pushed through the bore and followed by a few dry patches. That's it. You might try it as an alternative for that nice CZ -which is being prevented from giving you it's best accuracy by such a harsh cleaning regimen. :(

If you are using CCI Subs, the crap load of lead you get out is probably mixed with a lot of priming compound residue. I just quit using it entirely. Swing by my house and I'll give you 1100 rounds of it.~Muir

I’ll definitely take this on board. What do you suggest I do when accuracy drops off and I start getting fliers?
 
Tend to follow the logic 'The smaller the calibre, the longer the gap between cleanups' or as some scientists could say 'The amount of cleaning required for a calibre that is considered to be smaller in diameter is inversely propotional to the amount of time or number of controlled explosions that a firearm may require under optimum conditions. Actions such as banging the firearm against a hard object, using it for uncontrolled explosions (usually resulting in injuries), attempting to fire the wrong projectile etc have not been considered which may affect the proposed logic.'

I seriously need to head out and shoot as the lockdown is not helping my brain cells stay healthy.
 
I’ll definitely take this on board. What do you suggest I do when accuracy drops off and I start getting fliers?
I don't know. I don't get fliers that I can't attribute to the ammo. Sometimes a sharp leade can accumulate gunk. A dry patch inserted just into that area and retracted would collect residue. In that group I posted I know the left shift was me and my failing eyesight. (If I take too long to shoot the reticle and target blurs) The ammo was a proven LOT of Federal Ultra Match, or, R50 as it's known elsewhere. A Twenty two is like an iron skillet. It likes to be 'seasoned' and not given a soapy scrub. My initial recommendation would be to switch ammo if you can. I get fliers with CCI Subs even from the best of rifles. If nothing else, try that cleaning method. Not certain if Anschutz is still advising the same for their match rifles but it was so back in the 80s. Tiny drop of oil and a couple of dry patches does the trick.
If you give it a try, let me know how it works for you.~Muir

PS: This is the classic CCI flier from a good lot of that ammunition. Good CCI drop data included in this video....
 
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I use boretech rimfire cleaner. It does an excellent job of cleaning the barrel and keeps the rifle accurate.
 
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