Pard 007 POI change ?

[Pellet Pinger]

I bought one, hated it and sold it, bought another because with hindsight i should have given it a bit longer, hated that one too so sold it.
Buy a 008.

 

[purdey24]

I bought one, hated it and sold it, bought another because with hindsight i should have given it a bit longer, hated that one too so sold it.
Buy a 008.

Interesting comment.
I had exactly the opposite experience. Bought an 008, hated it, far too complicated and not nearly as good for daytime as a proper day scope. Back to the shop, changed to an 007, click it onto the back of the scope and away you go.
Still, it would not do if we were all the same.

 

[Foxyboy43]

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

Every time you add the 007 to your scope you need to calibrate it to your ret it using the X and Y axis, takes about 30 seconds.

Hmmm. Not sure “calibrate” is correct - all you need to do is centre the reticle using the drop down menu so that your crosshairs are in the middle of any footage/picture. If you don’t and the crosshairs are even way off centre it will still shoot to POI as you are seeing an electronic screen of the telescopic sight - so pretty much your call. As an aside 6x is a tad high for the Pard - it means your base magnification is 12x which unless you have a very stable rest and good position is likely too much for fieldwork.

 

[Longstrider]

Hmmm. Not sure “calibrate” is correct - all you need to do is centre the reticle using the drop down menu so that your crosshairs are in the middle of any footage/picture. If you don’t and the crosshairs are even way off centre it will still shoot to POI as you are seeing an electronic screen of the telescopic sight - so pretty much your call. As an aside 6x is a tad high for the Pard - it means your base magnification is 12x which unless you have a very stable rest and good position is likely too much for fieldwork.

Interesting reply ... I normally shoot at 10x, (where the 1/2 mil-dot reticule is accurate) but was told that the 007 is at zero magnification unless you choose to magnify. Consequently I've been using mine at my normal 10x and not asking any magnification of the pard. As said, I have struggled a bit to get a clear, focussed sight picture but now have it at 'acceptable' with a correspondingly 'acceptable' focus of the reticule. If I shift either to gain clarity I lose focus completely on the other so it stays 'as is'.

One day I will, perhaps, meet someone who actually understands these new-fangled gizmo's properly and they'll show me about 30 ways I'm doing it all wrong and the fox community will hate them forever ...

Friday afternoon will see me out making holes in a big cardboard box at the farm and I'll see if I can get the thing working for me, otherwise it'll be a case of taking the IR pill out of the lamp and putting the normal red pill back in. I don't often miss the bu$$ers with a good old fashioned lamp

 

[Foxyboy43]

Interesting reply ... I normally shoot at 10x, (where the 1/2 mil-dot reticule is accurate) but was told that the 007 is at zero magnification unless you choose to magnify. Consequently I've been using mine at my normal 10x and not asking any magnification of the pard. As said, I have struggled a bit to get a clear, focussed sight picture but now have it at 'acceptable' with a correspondingly 'acceptable' focus of the reticule. If I shift either to gain clarity I lose focus completely on the other so it stays 'as is'.

One day I will, perhaps, meet someone who actually understands these new-fangled gizmo's properly and they'll show me about 30 ways I'm doing it all wrong and the fox community will hate them forever ...

Friday afternoon will see me out making holes in a big cardboard box at the farm and I'll see if I can get the thing working for me, otherwise it'll be a case of taking the IR pill out of the lamp and putting the normal red pill back in. I don't often miss the bu$$ers with a good old fashioned lamp

There are lots of threads about Pards on this site - from memory (dangerous) the 007s have a starting point of 2x which means it doubles whatever your scope is set at so 6x is 12x, 8x is 16x etc. An initial high mag on your scope of choice like 6 or 8x will find you out particularly when you try it at night! I have a 007a and having tried it on several expensive scopes took the advice on this site and bought a cheap Hawke 3-9x50 - it is set at 3x (=6x) for day and night shooting and the parallax is set at 15m. As above there is lots of good info on Pards and scopes so do use the search function.

 

[Pellet Pinger]

Interesting comment.
I had exactly the opposite experience. Bought an 008, hated it, far too complicated and not nearly as good for daytime as a proper day scope. Back to the shop, changed to an 007, click it onto the back of the scope and away you go.
Still, it would not do if we were all the same.

Yep, having 2 x 008’s on rifles already, I found it a total faff, image wise not as good, eye relief a pain, shoot off x10 with the day scope, put the 007 on the back and wind it back to x4 to get a similar FOV and it shoots 2” high and left.
I know loads swear by them but, not for me.

 

[foxdropper]

Have had one from when the first came out and love it .Swap from air to all centre fires with just a quite adjust to focus the cross hairs .From there it’s parallax all the way .Did have the one issue when I missed a boar from a seat shooting over its head at 60 yards .
I think the pard was off centre leading to a distorted view of the scope .That’s my excuse anyway .
Shot two foxes using the .223 last night with it ,one at 240 paces other other at 287 so alls good .

 

[DVS1]

There are lots of threads about Pards on this site - from memory (dangerous) the 007s have a starting point of 2x which means it doubles whatever your scope is set at so 6x is 12x, 8x is 16x etc. An initial high mag on your scope of choice like 6 or 8x will find you out particularly when you try it at night! I have a 007a and having tried it on several expensive scopes took the advice on this site and bought a cheap Hawke 3-9x50 - it is set at 3x (=6x) for day and night shooting and the parallax is set at 15m. As above there is lots of good info on Pards and scopes so do use the search function.

I have a 007a and 007s and I can confirm 100% the s has a base mag of 1x like the 007a or I'd have sent mine back.

Both the 007a and s are used on my PM2 with no adverse zero issues what so ever. The 007s is better at longer range quality for sure...the sounds recording however sucks ass and a 223 sounds like a Rapid 7 lol

 

[Andy seatrout]

I had the exact same thing with a pard 007 on my .22 rim fire….perfectly sighted in, then I fitted the pard to go rabbit shooting, adjusted the parallax ( adjustable objective) to focus the pard, and I was missing like mad…

Missed three rabbits and gave up…. Went back to my daytime range and found that the parallax adjustment shifted the point of aim about five inches….

My advice, check to see if the scope shifts POA when you adjust the AO or side focus….. mine did, it was a Hawke ended up buying a new scope…. Another better quality hawke ( it is only a rimfire after all)

 

[Eric the Red]

Interesting reply ... I normally shoot at 10x, (where the 1/2 mil-dot reticule is accurate) but was told that the 007 is at zero magnification unless you choose to magnify. Consequently I've been using mine at my normal 10x and not asking any magnification of the pard. As said, I have struggled a bit to get a clear, focussed sight picture but now have it at 'acceptable' with a correspondingly 'acceptable' focus of the reticule. If I shift either to gain clarity I lose focus completely on the other so it stays 'as is'.

One day I will, perhaps, meet someone who actually understands these new-fangled gizmo's properly and they'll show me about 30 ways I'm doing it all wrong and the fox community will hate them forever ...

Friday afternoon will see me out making holes in a big cardboard box at the farm and I'll see if I can get the thing working for me, otherwise it'll be a case of taking the IR pill out of the lamp and putting the normal red pill back in. I don't often miss the bu$$ers with a good old fashioned lamp

Can I ask what scope you use - as there is only one scope I have ever heard of this on. As per my previous post, the Pard should be used to focus exclusively on the reticle of the scope, using both the front and rear focuses of the Pard to get the best picture. Once that picture is clear, the Pard should not need adjusting at all - just use the parallax on the scope to gain a clear sight picture. Is this what you are doing?

 

[Foxyboy43]

OK another three happence worth (younger members - ask your grandad). I have the OO7a about a year now being a (very) late starter to NV. Like so many others I found it initially a tad disappointing but that was when used on my more expensive multi-lensed/coated scopes. £60 or so and a Hawke 3-9x50 with Parallax transformed my night-time shooting and this was again further revolutionised by the addition of a Sirius “add-on” so for an outlay of c.£550 I had NV capability to shoot at distances I never thought possible. Any issues I encountered were as a result of not getting scope/pard focus right and of course the Parallax AND you will definitely have to make some adjustments between night and day-time shooting but it really is no big deal!
Earlier this year I went for the 008P @ £550 as a permanent fixture on my beloved .222 and again I love it. This small unit will enable you to see and shoot foxes clearly to 150yds and again with an add-on IR at distances you will not believe. Only last night we were watching foxes at 350 yards and they were clearly identifiable but for me much too far to shoot.
Sooo - honest conclusions from a non-technical user:-
The 007 has its detractors largely because of the extended eye-relief but I found that moving the scope forward only an inch or so made it more than usable and still retained a decent eye-relief without the Pard - much of this of course has been addressed by recent shorter models. My honest advice is to persevere - it is different and it can be a bit of a faff initially but you will get used to it - suffice to say I have fitted collars to my .17, .222 and 6.5x55 and may well fit one on the .308. Since doing so I have only rarely used the “naked” scope. In my view the picture/video facility is excellent and I have amassed a library of shots taken at quarry of all shapes and sizes in full daylight and in pitch black - something I will cherish in my fast-looming dotage.
The 008P is aesthetically awful if you are a dyed-in-the-wool scope purist, it looks nothing like a traditional scope and the mount is a sight (see wot I did there) not to behold! However, IMHO the unit is fantastic. Yes again it can be a faff getting it set up initially and centred on the (awful) mount (why oh why not have a non-AR version that lets you mount the unit straight to your rifle dovetail??) but as with the 007 once you have done this it is easypeasy from there on.
The difference between the 7/8s in terms of performance will not persuade me to replace the 7 as its multi-gun flexibility with the simple twist fixing system is terrific and anyhow an added IR pretty much balances them out in all practical terms. Finally - do not think that the Pards will enable you to view/call/shoot foxes undetected - they definitely see the IR and can be wary as a result but in my experience a lot less wary than with a white/red/green lamp.
This is a useful link.
What Would Suit Me Better; The 12mm Or 16mm Pard NV007A?
Other NVs are of course available……..

 

[Andy seatrout]

I'm new to the world of NV having treated myself to a pard007 recently. Initial trials were very promising despite some difficulty getting things all focussed up when fitted to the Hawke Vantage 6-24 on my .204. I've shunned the use of the in-built illuminator for the time being and am using an IR torch.
First time out with it I fairly easily picked out, and successfully shot, a couple of bunnies at about 200yds, then last weekend disaster seemed to strike

The caller was out and Charlie appeared right on cue, skirted the field and settled to sit and assess the wierdness from a position about 200yds from me. I settled the crosshairs on the upper chest/lower throat area and squeezed ... Very dead fox. The next one stood looking at me from about 160yds out. Bang = dead fox. Then the evenings light died and I put the Pard onto the rifle. An hour later a fox tracked the first one I shot and stood there sniffing the spot where #1 had fallen. Follow the drill and squeeze .... only to miss by God knows how much and off went Charlie at Warp 6. (Accompanied by a whining ricochet .. who says it can't happen with a .204 ? ! )
Then it happened again about 20 minutes later .. a complete 'sitter' at about 150yds. Settle in on the sticks and squeeze. Bang goes the rifle and off runs Charlie

I ended my evening right then and there. Not being 100% certain that shots are going where I want them to is a sign to go home.

Now ... I'm yet to have a chance to get out with my trusty cardboard box and check zero with and without the Pard.
I'm not known for missing foxes anywhere I'm willing to squeeze the trigger on them so I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced and POI change with the Pard 007 ?
I know I'm effectively using my original scope reticule etc etc but I'm bu$$ered if I can see a good reason for those 2 misses and it's bugging the whotsits out of me.

As I’ve stated in my post above, check the scope itself isn’t faulty….you need at adjust the parallax to a 30 yard focus to get clear vision and I found that the POA shifted in the scope when you adjusted it, it was a well known fault in older hawke scopes, Google it….

 

[foxdropper]

Perhaps it’s just familiarity but I find no adjustment needed between day or night other than getting a clear cross hair in the pard .What some don’t seem to do is fix the collar and pard to suit a sharp image on the scope before tightening up the collar .On all my setups I do this to allow minimum faffing about adjusting for focus .

This is on the airgun at 7 m .

This is the .223 at roughly 200

 

[foxdropper]

Double posted

 

[Longstrider]

I can see that I've opened up a can of worms with this and am tentatively entering into a strange new world where I know little. I can also see that I have a lot of faffing around to do ... the very thing that I hoped to avoid by buying a 'simple' add-on.
I'll have a play with it. I'll give it a good chance to impress, but keep your eyes on Classifieds for a 007 with VERY little use if it means changing scopes/too much faffing/missing the sods when I could have killed them with the lamp.

 

[foxdropper]

That’s where you are going wrong sir .Don’t play with it .Set the collar so the cross hairs on scope are clear(after using the eye relief on scope to sharpen the cross hairs) in pard and the picture through the pard looks clear via the parallax .There is nothing else to faff at .

 

[Longstrider]

That’s where you are going wrong sir .Don’t play with it .Set the collar so the cross hairs on scope are clear(after using the eye relief on scope to sharpen the cross hairs) in pard and the picture through the pard looks clear via the parallax .There is nothing else to faff at .

Will re-fit collar and get a clear reticule that way. Will then attempt to obtain focussed sight picture. Will then see if it shoots where I point it.

It is, by the way, a Pard 007a with a 16mm something-or-other.

 

[Pellet Pinger]

Yep, having 2 x 008’s on rifles already, I found it a total faff, image wise not as good, eye relief a pain, shoot off x10 with the day scope, put the 007 on the back and wind it back to x4 to get a similar FOV and it shoots 2” high and left.
I know loads swear by them but, not for me.

Edit,
also forgot to say the 007 magnified the ret too much for me. Head shooting rabbits at 120yds with the HMR was pretty much impossible.

 

[DVS1]

I do find it interesting to hear other users findings with their pards...as said before here a big factor is the optic its being fitted on.

I first got a pard for the flexibility of the system, initially very disappointed but stuck with it and tweaked here and there and this is my current go to setting which works for me -

PM2 @ 7x optical zoom
Pard007A (or S) @ 2x zoom (12mm)
Sirius IR Laser (adjusted to your desire)

I have removed the rubber eye cup to allow another 1-1.5" eye relief and helps limit fogging up!

This is what I see...I have cropped the video which will make image quality slightly worse but still VERY usable.

284m Fox

 

[foxdropper]

This makes no sense to me at all .Mag for ret is same at any distance unless you mess with the settings on pard which there is no need to do at all .Use the scope for any mag then parallax to sharp image .I use mine from 4m to 350 with no change in ret size or distortion .

Edit,
also forgot to say the 007 magnified the ret too much for me. Head shooting rabbits at 120yds with the HMR was pretty much impossible.

Edited to say all my scope are hawke from cheapos to £800 sidewinders and all work perfectly well with the pard .
I actually now prefer the position off the pard to a conventional scope but that just familiarity I guess .