Thermal scopes….

I currently have a pard ir scope on my .243, works brilliantly at dusk when there is enough ambient ir light, once it needs to use its own Ir light (once it’s dark) visibility distance is really reduced and if there is any kind of moisture in the air you can’t see beyond about 30yds of you’re lucky. Iv also got a pulsar thermal spotter, brilliant for scanning around to see where to head and to keep an eye on footpath people not where they’re meant to be! I’m debating getting a thermal scope to go on the gun but have no idea what’s good and what’s bad. Makes and specifications Etc. What’s everyone’s thoughts on what I should look at. It’s really frustrating when you know the deer are there and in range but you just can’t get a clear enough image thro the ir scope. Beginning to wonder if I should just go back to using a lamp but then they know where I am! Has anyone got a really good set up? Thanks
 
Since you currently have a PARD 008, the idea of a scope that "hangs off the back of the gun", as opposed to a traditional tube style scope does not appear to be an issue.
If that is the case, the choice is simple, get a HIK Thunder TQ50 (the original model, not the Thunder 2.0)
It's far and away the best "bang for your buck" thermal scope on the market at the moment

Cheers

Bruce
 
Best to try get a look through a few different scopes, but there lots to choose from. They definitely work better at night. I use a few different models in the pulsar range. Last rabbit of the night were 111yards. 20230905_235707.webp
 
Since you currently have a PARD 008, the idea of a scope that "hangs off the back of the gun", as opposed to a traditional tube style scope does not appear to be an issue.
If that is the case, the choice is simple, get a HIK Thunder TQ50 (the original model, not the Thunder 2.0)
It's far and away the best "bang for your buck" thermal scope on the market at the moment

Cheers

Bruce
Bruce,
Why the original and not the 2.0.
 
The original is significantly cheaper and the reports I heard were that when it first went on sale the image on the 2.0 was significantly worse than the original.
I understand there is a new firmware update that brings the image almost up to the standard of the original, but no better.
So, if you buy the Thunder 2.0 you're paying £900 more for a better battery

Cheers

Bruce
 
So what kind of distance would you be able to shoot at through this?, I have no idea of what specification is average, good or bad, regarding resolution, pixels Etc! It’s tricky as I want to look through a range of scopes but I just don’t know where would have them in stock .
Since you currently have a PARD 008, the idea of a scope that "hangs off the back of the gun", as opposed to a traditional tube style scope does not appear to be an issue.
If that is the case, the choice is simple, get a HIK Thunder TQ50 (the original model, not the Thunder 2.0)
It's far and away the best "bang for your buck" thermal scope on the market at the moment

Cheers

Bruce
 
It would seem to me that you might have an issue with your scope no preforming correctly. I use a C50 and see 200 yards with IR. I use the pard 007 and can see 300 yards with ir.
My mate has the pard scope and loves it.

so it may be worth investigating that first so you don’t buy another nv and have the same issue.

nb. In fog the night vision is useless.
 
So what kind of distance would you be able to shoot at through this?, I have no idea of what specification is average, good or bad, regarding resolution, pixels Etc! It’s tricky as I want to look through a range of scopes but I just don’t know where would have them in stock .
I, and several shooting buddies have HIK Thunder TQ50 thermal scopes
With mine, I've shot rabbits at less than 20 yards and foxes at over 300 yards
One of my buddies recently shot a fox with his TQ50 at a measured 360 yards
You have the legal right to buy a thermal scope online and if, for any reason, you don't want to keep it, you can return it undamaged and in it's original undamaged packaging within 14 days and get a full refund including the postage costs for sending it to you but not the postage costs for you sending it back to the seller

Cheers

Bruce
 
Oh, maybe it is just reflection off the moderator, what can I do about that? Maybe tonight I’ll whip it off and see what it’s like off the gun. I’d never be able to get a clear focused image at 300 yds tho, 150 max. I find the focus is such a small fine adjustment in it. Thanks
 
How wide is your mod?
is the ir focused to a tight or wide beam?
how high is the mod above the mod.
which pard exactly are you using, as I get confused with all the models available. All the god old days, 008 or 007, that was it. Lol.
 
All night vision's performance is down when there is a high water content in the air, but it sounds to me that your n/v is under performing, if you are picking up reflections from the moderator or top of barrel this would explain it.
You need to ask on here for some one local to call round with some lasers and mounting kit and just see whats wrong.
I'm out 5 nights per week fox shooting unless the bbc weather forecast says "visibility poor" as this usually means visibility is likely to be sub 200 yds.

Thermal is far from perfect, get rain and your background is gone which is a safety issue ?.

Dave (warbucks)
 
Oh, maybe it is just reflection off the moderator, what can I do about that? Maybe tonight I’ll whip it off and see what it’s like off the gun. I’d never be able to get a clear focused image at 300 yds tho, 150 max. I find the focus is such a small fine adjustment in it. Thanks
find some one who shoots a lot of foxes on a regular basis they will have ironed out all the problems.
Shot a lot of foxes with this set up on the .243 also sees far beyond legal light for deer. Set up with a 95gn round so on par with any 6mm stalking rifle.
20230905_082147[1].webp

Have two IR's that one is lower power for the other set up on the .22 for rabbits.
Or just add something decent to the farm account...
I sub contract to these people so around farms a lot :tiphat:
 
Got a night licence.
You will struggle to sex deer at night with a pure thermal spotter/scope setup. Even the most expensive stuff won’t give you the detail to be able to tell 100% between say a roe doe or buck. Not 100% anyway and certainly not at range. That said if it’s muntjac or winter shooting on fallow/reds/sika I suppose id isn’t as much of an issue.
 
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