RWS cases susprisingly useless after a couple of reloads
- Thread starter Pine Marten
- Start date
Same. Its good brass. 6+ firings no problem.
Annealing makes them go longer of not using primer popping loads.
Steff
Well-Known Member
This is really for the most desperate with nothing else to do. Just get some new brass, shoot it 6,7 or 8 times and live a life. I‘m pretty sure that an equal amount of brass is ruined in the process as is being led to a longer life. Don‘t believe the internet.
Not at all a very helpful suggestion in the particular circumstance of the OP's problem.The sentiment might be valid in respect of say .243 Winchester or .30/06 or even .303 cartridge cases. And I'd add I'm also of the "bin it and replace it" camp where cases in the calibre are widely available.
But this is 7x65R. Component cases are likely unavailable or near unavailable in the UK. So annealing to be able to have cases to be able to reload is maybe the only present option in this calibre.
The "bin it and replace it" choice may not be obtainable. So not really of much help at all...unless those replying suchwise know of a source, here and now, for such cases? In which case where from, how many and how much?
PM - if you haven't tried annealing before then try the following.
Get a battery powered drill & a suitably sized socket bit that you can sit the head of the case in. Hold the drill so the case is upright & rotate it slowly - it may wobble a bit but as long as it doesn't fall out you're OK.
Set the flame on your blow torch so you have a small blue cone in the centre & while the case is rotating put the tip of the blue cone 5-10mm away from the bottom of shoulder of the case.
With the case rotating all the time watch the neck & you will see a colour change which will then move up the neck & down below the shoulder
When you get a 'rainbow' like bluefish line all around the circumference of the case just below the shoulder STOP!
DO NOT GET THE ANY OF THE CASE ORANGE OR RED - if you do that the case is ruined & will likely deform when you try to resize it.
What you are looking for is a pale brown colour on the neck & shoulder with the 'rainbow' effect no more than 5mm below the shoulder - like in this picture:
Achieving the required heat treatment will only take a few seconds & you don't want to anneal too far down the case.
Good luck & PM me if you need any help.
Get a battery powered drill & a suitably sized socket bit that you can sit the head of the case in. Hold the drill so the case is upright & rotate it slowly - it may wobble a bit but as long as it doesn't fall out you're OK.
Set the flame on your blow torch so you have a small blue cone in the centre & while the case is rotating put the tip of the blue cone 5-10mm away from the bottom of shoulder of the case.
With the case rotating all the time watch the neck & you will see a colour change which will then move up the neck & down below the shoulder
When you get a 'rainbow' like bluefish line all around the circumference of the case just below the shoulder STOP!
DO NOT GET THE ANY OF THE CASE ORANGE OR RED - if you do that the case is ruined & will likely deform when you try to resize it.
What you are looking for is a pale brown colour on the neck & shoulder with the 'rainbow' effect no more than 5mm below the shoulder - like in this picture:
Achieving the required heat treatment will only take a few seconds & you don't want to anneal too far down the case.
Good luck & PM me if you need any help.
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palmer_mike
Well-Known Member
There are companies which will anneal your brass for you. I think spud1967 who advertises on here may do it?
Might be easiest to post your cases to someone and pay a small fee to get them done (rather than risk buggering up your precious brass)
Might be easiest to post your cases to someone and pay a small fee to get them done (rather than risk buggering up your precious brass)
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
I have been using RWS Cases in my 7x65Rfor the last 13 years. I have some that have now done over 10 reloads. RWS brass is quite hard. I have in the past annealed some. Bullets I have used include Hornady 140gn Softpoint, Fox 150gn and RWS H-Mantle.
Given that the 7x65R is a rimmed case and using it in a breakaction I always full length resize and set my die so it is firmly in contact with the case head holder.
But I have always used a taper crimp on my reloads. I have the Hornady Dies and they have a taper crimp facility. I have never had any issues with bullets moving etc.
I have though in my 223 had issues with neck tension from just a simple resize and PPU brass. Again very simply sorted with a crimp.
I like a firm crimp on any hunting ammo. It means the bullet won't move until there is a good level of pressure behind it and that the bullet survives being put in pockets, carried, or withstanding recoil. It also tightens up the group and makes things much more consistent.
Given that the 7x65R is a rimmed case and using it in a breakaction I always full length resize and set my die so it is firmly in contact with the case head holder.
But I have always used a taper crimp on my reloads. I have the Hornady Dies and they have a taper crimp facility. I have never had any issues with bullets moving etc.
I have though in my 223 had issues with neck tension from just a simple resize and PPU brass. Again very simply sorted with a crimp.
I like a firm crimp on any hunting ammo. It means the bullet won't move until there is a good level of pressure behind it and that the bullet survives being put in pockets, carried, or withstanding recoil. It also tightens up the group and makes things much more consistent.
Spud does it for £16 for the 1st Hundred and £10 for each hundred after that, given that the case in question isn't that common it would be money well spent IMHO.
RWS has always been good in my experience so worth doing.
I'm pretty certain that this isn't true.
Yes, you may have a couple of cases sacrificed when you first try annealing but, unless you are a complete numpty who gets the case way too hot, a slightly over annealed neck can be work hardened again by running it through a neck size die a few times.
I agree and when the other option is to buy new brass, what is there to lose…. A bit of gas and a few minutes. I tend to find about 6 seconds in the hottest part of the flame is about right for most cases. Ideally whilst being rotated in a drill but as a low tech trial may be unnecessary
If no drill available then hold in the jaws of a pair of pliers, when colour starts to change slowly rotate the case through 180 degrees to ensure it’s annealed all around. It won’t be that even but will do as a trial to see if annealing does the trick.
Don’t hold the case in your fingers as, despite what some may say, it’ll get hot enough to properly burn your fingers!!
I had a spotless AMP for a steal on here.
Amazing piece of machinery.
Amazing piece of machinery.
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Rws has been great for me in 6.5x55 and 243
But I only neck resize, using my Lee loader. This all sounds quite complicated compared to what I do, but then I can only use it in my gun.
Do you have to FL resize like this all the time? If fire formed to your gun surely that’s ok? Maybe just neck resize for a few loads.
Sorry for being simple as I’m sure I have missed something but my experience has been very functional.
But I only neck resize, using my Lee loader. This all sounds quite complicated compared to what I do, but then I can only use it in my gun.
Do you have to FL resize like this all the time? If fire formed to your gun surely that’s ok? Maybe just neck resize for a few loads.
Sorry for being simple as I’m sure I have missed something but my experience has been very functional.
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Why is that? Genuine question.
Lee loader only neck sizes and is adequate for what I do. I’m not trying to be clever I don’t have a press so I can only neck size.
Druid
Well-Known Member
You may choose to but you certainly don’t NEED to.
Unless using a semi auto or firing the ammo in a different firearm.
Consistency . If neck sizing only , you'll need to push the shoulder back eventually anyway after a few firings .
A lot of reloaders are big advocates of using a f/l sizing die to push the shoulder back a couple of thou' . Personally , I don't like the idea of neck sizing for stalking or foxing . If you need a follow up shot that's the wrong time to find a round won't chamber . It's all down to individual choice and an individuals opinion .
If what you're doing works for you , why change ?
Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
Yes I was just interested as the brass seems to last for ages. I only use in my rifle so they always seem to chamber fine but I understand the logic that they may not eventually. I’m also not actually sure if hitting them into a Lee loader doesn’t bump the shoulder back anyway so i may be describing it wrong.
Thank you for taking the time to answer.
You're describing it perfectly . I can't comment on the Lee Loader as I've no personal experience using one , I know a lot of people are fans .
It's worth noting some chamberings are more prone to case growth and hot loads will contribute greatly to case growth and work hardening . If you're running mild loads you'll get more reloads out of your brass before the need to shoulder bump regardless .
What chambering and how many firings has your brass had ? Just being nosey .
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