Quick release mounts?

The Sako option has a QR base so you’ll still be able to use the standard Optilock rings.

If you go for the Leupold option you’ll need the specific bases and QR rings.

They’re slightly different in operation, with the Sako system the ring and base is removed from the action, with the Leupold system the base remains attached to the action and the ring is released.

If you wanted to add additional scopes you may find the Leupold a cheaper setup in the long run, as you’re only adding rings rather than rings and based.
 
Rather than taking scope off what about just removing the stock
You should be prepared for shifting zero when replacing stock, unless there's chassis style bedding block or solid bedding job. Furthermore, the zero might shift for the first few rounds, so you might waste a handful of ammo chasing it. Problem especially if there are stupid limits of bringing only 20 or 40 rounds with the rifle.
 
You should be prepared for shifting zero when replacing stock, unless there's chassis style bedding block or solid bedding job. Furthermore, the zero might shift for the first few rounds, so you might waste a handful of ammo chasing it. Problem especially if there are stupid limits of bringing only 20 or 40 rounds with the rifle.

You just need to test it. I have found with both my Heym SR20 and Rigby which are both wooden stocked that there is minimal loss of zero when you take off the stock and replace it.

Besides 40 rounds is more than enough ammo to get a rifle back on zero. Most hunting trips you fire one or two rounds per animal, and you shoot just a few animals.
 
It's not getting rifle back to zero, but having adequate amount of ammo for the trip.

Single zeroing takes 10rds, if you have quality rifle and optics (and do your part). Then you have to be prepared to re-zero on the field, in case your rifle gets bumped or something. Maybe have few practice rounds to build confidence, if you have a bad shot. Ideally you want to end the hunt with at least the 10rds zeroing reserve plus full mag. So 40rds gets scarce very fast. Any less than that and you need to skimp on the zeroing procedure etc.
 
wildfowler.250, I bought an aluminum flight case second hand from E-Bay for £20 collected from a nearby town. It has no makers name, but measures about 4 feet tall, 12 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. Double locks and double layers of foam top and bottom. My gun went in complete, but with the moderator not fitted. I was anxious about it loosing its zero, but need not have worried, as it was still spot on, not even one click different.
 
Both Holts and Southams often have good quality flight cases for sale for relatively little money. (Being sold on after a trip abroad I suspect) So if you aren't in too much of a hurry have a look. Both Southams and Holts have sales on at the moment so have a llok?

David.
 
Looks like there may be Tally bases that fit the 75 action too, which means that the excellent Tally lever release rings would also be an option.

WRT gun cases in normal sized vehicles, I have a clone of a Pelican 1750 case. I have successfully used a collapsible cycle rack and ratchet straps to make it portable even with a very small vehicle. Obviously common sense is important and I am not recommending it for general transport of firearms in the UK (before anyone jumps down my throat), but it does allow you to move a fundamentally awkward and bulky object pretty easily and cheaply.
 
It's not getting rifle back to zero, but having adequate amount of ammo for the trip.

Single zeroing takes 10rds, if you have quality rifle and optics (and do your part). Then you have to be prepared to re-zero on the field, in case your rifle gets bumped or something. Maybe have few practice rounds to build confidence, if you have a bad shot. Ideally you want to end the hunt with at least the 10rds zeroing reserve plus full mag. So 40rds gets scarce very fast. Any less than that and you need to skimp on the zeroing procedure etc.
And if you bump/knock the rifle during the trip then what do you do as it happens in and out of vehicles other people passing it down out....
Looking at the your negative side he would be better off hiring a rifle or take a bow... :rolleyes:
 
And if you bump/knock the rifle
You can do what you like, but if my rifle is handled so roughly that the zero is suspect, I'll test it before having a shot at living creature. Don't give your rifle to "other people" if you doubt their ability...
 
You can do what you like, but if my rifle is handled so roughly that the zero is suspect, I'll test it before having a shot at living creature. Don't give your rifle to "other people" if you doubt their ability...
You won't have enough rounds left after checking it from slipping on Kudu poo :rofl:
 
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