Yeah Contact them directly. It wasn't super speedy that's for sure. At least a month if I remember correctly. I'm currently selling my 8x56 with upgraded turret as I don't need it any more. But obviously not as cheap as doing your own!
Ranging with a fixed S&B 8x56 A7
- Thread starter aris
- Start date
Nice. There a good scope. Last years and brilliant for general stalking. You won't go wrong with tikka. All I use!Thanks!
Aye, to be fair, I got mine at an absolute steal - seller just wanted rid, and gave me a nice discount including his unneeded optilock tikka rings and basesideal as I have my eye on getting a tikka rifle for range work
Snap.
Cheeky bit of Strelok....
I wouldn't shoot with that reticle at 300 yds, unless it was an emergency shot at a wounded animal. With a reticle like the above I would be restricting the range that I was shooting at.
Regards
JCS
kenbro
Well-Known Member
Think you’ve got your 1 and your 4 in the wrong order for your basic trig.
Ken.
Dont waste your money or a scope reticule rebuild , learn to use what you have , look up maximum point blank rage MPBR and use it - this in regards of deer , not punching holes in little targets.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Here’s what I have done with my S&B 10x42 and Zeiss 6x42 with the same reticle.
1) I first zero for MPBR.
2) I have looked at plenty of deer through them where I know the range. I know my ground and the ranges therin. In particular I look at length of body compared to cross hair.
3) if deer looks too small in my crosshair I don’t shoot.
4) i take a centre of engine room hold. The bullet will strike anywhere from just above to just below the cross hair. If I need to think about holding a bit higher I get closer or don’t take the shot.
5) on the 223 which I also use on the range, I have marked my hunting zero with a silver sharpie pen. I have also through a combination of an app and subsequent testing know that 35 clicks up gives me a 575 yard zero - the range of the clubs long range targets. I have marked this as well.
In my experience long range shots on deer don’t save time, increase cull etc. instead they do complete opposite as finding carcass and then extraction often take a hell of lot longer as they always seem to fall not where you think they are.
1) I first zero for MPBR.
2) I have looked at plenty of deer through them where I know the range. I know my ground and the ranges therin. In particular I look at length of body compared to cross hair.
3) if deer looks too small in my crosshair I don’t shoot.
4) i take a centre of engine room hold. The bullet will strike anywhere from just above to just below the cross hair. If I need to think about holding a bit higher I get closer or don’t take the shot.
5) on the 223 which I also use on the range, I have marked my hunting zero with a silver sharpie pen. I have also through a combination of an app and subsequent testing know that 35 clicks up gives me a 575 yard zero - the range of the clubs long range targets. I have marked this as well.
In my experience long range shots on deer don’t save time, increase cull etc. instead they do complete opposite as finding carcass and then extraction often take a hell of lot longer as they always seem to fall not where you think they are.
south-nofolk-stalker
Well-Known Member
Shot a lot of deer with that exact set up.
So basically there is 25.1 MOA between the crosshairs to the bottom bar according to Strelok?
I agree - but i'd like to understand the full limits of my setup. If I know where 300 is - I can then figure out everything in between. I'm doing 300@Bisley at the end of the month with my club - i'll give this a test at the zero range and then on Century.
Correct
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
On the Schmidt & Bender Website a guide to estimating distance with your reticle.
hybridfiat
Well-Known Member
When I was the primary shooter for a Nickel firm in WA, we used a Hakko 10x scope on a Ruger in .270 Win, and this is how I estimated ranges on the roos I had to euthanise.
I measured a few roos heads to get an average of the tip of ears to chin height.
The farthest out I had to shoot one was aprox 350m (took 2 shots, the bloody thing kept ducking).
Head shots of course as the enviros were watching..
All shots were taken from the top of one of two tailings dams that each measured 1.5km by 1.5km.
The dried crust on the surface would support a roo looking for water only for so long and then would collapse, stranding the roo in mud up to it's chest.
It only happened only 2-3 times a year when some dipstick left a gate open.
But we couldn't get to the roos safely to rescue them.
I measured a few roos heads to get an average of the tip of ears to chin height.
The farthest out I had to shoot one was aprox 350m (took 2 shots, the bloody thing kept ducking).
Head shots of course as the enviros were watching..
All shots were taken from the top of one of two tailings dams that each measured 1.5km by 1.5km.
The dried crust on the surface would support a roo looking for water only for so long and then would collapse, stranding the roo in mud up to it's chest.
It only happened only 2-3 times a year when some dipstick left a gate open.
But we couldn't get to the roos safely to rescue them.
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caorach
Well-Known Member
I pretty much do the same - I use an S&B 8X56 and find it an excellent stalking scope.
Some years back myself and a mate spotted a big sika stag and we both agreed it was about 120 yards away. I lay down in a gateway to take a shot and the crosshairs were covering more of the chest than I'd expected. I didn't shoot and was of the view there was something not quite right. The following night I stood in the same gateway and ranged the rushes beside where the stag stood and it came out at nearly 300 yards. Clearly there was something about the lie of the ground that fooled both of us but a simple scope and application of the brain saved the day.
These days I think many people want complex (and expensive) gadgets to remove the need for them to think and most marketing seems aimed in this direction offering coats that protect you from every possible condition without you needing to think about what you wear, scopes that will display all the ballistic info on your mobile phone so you don't need to think about wind and distance, bullets that are designed so you don't need to think about wind drift as they are marketed as removing this requirement... The list is endless
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Quite. God alone knows how the likes of my father in the 1950’s grew up shooting crocodiles at night with open sighted 303 and mannlichers with battery powered flashlights, or guinae fowl and spring hares with open sighted .22s. I shoot the vast majority of my deer with a 50 year old 6x42 zeiss scope mounted on my combination gun.
Rhodesianjess
Well-Known Member
I must admit that I have a private snigger at some of the people that I take out on the estate here. Range finder required for a less than 150 yards shot, the need to dial up and down before the shot ,using puffer bottle to determine wind direction.
The old boys where we grew up would join us I think in pondering modern methods. Seen them empty a SMLE/MK4 magazine at impala for 7/8 animals on the deck, only the first one stood still the rest pronking as only impala can. Spotlighting crocs with open sights, shooting lion from a machan in the dark with moon sights on a double rifle, flying guineafowl with a 22rf, headshot on snake with 22rf, leopard with a shotgun so you know how close they were!
Different times so these days different methods.
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