@Maran14 - buying a kit seems to save some money, when you consider what you get, but you may soon find that there are certain bits that you either never use or quickly replace with a better 2nd hand piece of equipment.
I bought a Lee Challenger kit and soon found I did not need several bits and replaced some bits with better options.
There's nothing wrong with Lee kit, it's well designed and functions well, though there are some better bits you could buy (one example is the scales - they're ok, but once you use a RCBS 5-0-5, there is no going back to Lee beams).
Bear in mind you will also need to supplement a kit with the following;
Reloading manual - I would suggest the Lee reloading manual and another book, called 'The ABC's of Reloading' are best, as they are frank, easy to read, deal with the process and are not limited by the projectiles they provide, as can be the case with the Hornady manual.
Dies - check what a die set contains and only buy what you need, as an example, the Lee Ultimate will contain 4 dies, inclusing both full length and neck sizing. If you know you're only going to full length size, then buy their Pacesetter, which has three dies (F/L, seating and factory crimp), or even the RGB ('Really Good Buy') set which contains the F/L and seating dies
Case trimmer - Either a hand held, press or bench mounted one, this needs the appropriate calibre insert AND the cutter (the cutter can be used with multiple different calibre inserts).
Loading tray - to hold your cases individually and upright through the process.
Calipers - To measure the case and cartridge. Analogue or digital works, choose which you prefer.
Chamfer tool - Sometimes supplied, the Lee one works, but the RCBS chamfer tool is better.
Check weights - I think these are essential to ensuring your scales are set up accurately.
Some thoughts in general;
Lube - Lee lube works well and as you apply it by hand/finger, you get a really good appreciation for the condition of your brass. I tried a pad and some other sticky lubes, but I returned to the Lee lube as it 'just works' and doesn't involve spraying and gives a consistent coverage (as you're in control of each round's lubrication).
Beam scales - RCBS scales are genuinely better than the Lee ones, especially in the terms of being simpler to ensure you have the right weights set up on the counter balance.
Digital scales - small electronic scales can work well, but I would definitely supplement these with the check weights and be continually checking that they haven't shifted.
Bullet pullers - some may say essential kit, as there is undoubtedly the chance that you will seat a bullet too deep, realise too late you've seated a bullet in an empty case etc. I would highly recommend the Hornady Cam-Lock puller over a kinetic hammer. Far less mess and more controllable.
Electric or battery powered drill - especially if you don't invest in a case prep station for trimming, chamfering etc, it gets very uncomfortable trimming and chamfering by hand if doing more than say 20 rounds at a time.
Tumblers, sonic cleaners etc - Not really needed, as it has been proven that 'dirty brass' (including not even cleaning the primer pockets out) makes little to no difference unless you're shooting in a ridiculously high precision arena such as F Class or bench rest. It's still nice to have shiny brass though, so it might be something to consider if you have the time and money to invest, as it comes with the added dilemmas of media (steel pins or corn cob?), potential additional cleaning (removing media dust/checking for stuck pins, drying out sonic cleaned brass etc). I will typically use some 0000 gauge wire wool to polish up the exterior of the brass while trimming and chamfering.
Gadgets - Micrometer seating dies, primer pocket reamers, bullet pointing dies, neck trimming and concentricity gauges, adjustable primer seating presses etc. - all have their place, but don't get hyped into thinking you NEED these to make very accurate and precise loads.
Anti-static wipes - very useful to swipe around the powder charge holder and pan prior to use, to prevent the powder 'sticking' to the sides.
Nitrile gloves - useful to stop getting fingerprints over everyting and keep the shiny brass shiny, and more importantly, stops your hands getting covered in lube, brass chips and turning black.
Safety glasses - always use when priming.
There's a raft of other things, but as most will say, it's very useful if you can get an experienced mentor to show you the ropes and be able to ask questions when you start your journey.
