I'm not Larry Potterfield...
Most advice talks about numbers, but it's always best to be clear on what you are looking to achieve and act accordingly. every barrel - even from same maker can be different.
The break-in process is looking to apply a finish to the bore. Some argue it is a polish, others that they are sealing pores and imperfections. The reality ( as usual ) is a bit of both. And that's not leave out those who believe it to be a waste of time!
From dealing with hundreds of rifles, I believe it is worth doing.
At the outset, keep in mind it is possible to wear out/ damage a bore faster by incorrect 'cleaning' than by shooting.
Good kit pays for itself time after time. There's lots of good kit and some bad kit out there. I use Dewey rods - they work for me and they are my go to rod. We sell them, because I use them - not the other way round - but be aware of that bias on my part. There are plenty of other good rods. Look for a good bearing system, no exposed steel, a good cover/sheathing - or appropriate rod material. Avoid jointed rods as your main system - most have some flex and risk bore contact. Keep all rods clean and free from grit.
Bore guides are a good idea - you want them to centre the rod, minimise scraping in the bolt -way, avoid throat damage and rod to rifling contact. Not least it helps if they assist in stopping solvent leaking into the action & stock. Possum Hollow tick all my boxes - if someone can let me know why they seem impossible to get just now I'd be grateful - we've a number on backorder since May and Possum Hollow won't answer my e mails & calls! In that vein - if anyone knows of a good small batch plastic tube extruder/ turning company in NE Scotland we are seriously looking at getting something made.
To stop solvent leak it needs to be a good fit - or have a suitable o ring seal - as per Possum Hollow ( which is what Larry uses )
A good bore solvent - again there are lots to choose from. I like Butch's Bore Shine, Tetra, Shooters Choice - there are others. For Copper removal I like Forrest Foam. Wipe out is popular on here - seems to work just fine.
Good jag and patches - prefer spear type - as supplied with Dewey rod. Patch drops off at muzzle.
Brushes - prefer nylon to brass. We are using a copper/brass solvent, its going to attack a brass brush, re-depositing the very stuff we are trying to get out. The centre spine should be something softer than the bore and finished in a tight loop rather than cut with exposed ends - risking scratches. Nylon works well.
All brushes are grit magnets - they should be cleaned well after use and stored in a clean container. Brake cleaner is a good way to neutralise the solvent on the brush. Forget specialist shooting solvents - brake cleaner from Halfords is cheaper. Or if in my line of work buy it by the 5 litre can from an autofactor!
Some form of cradle makes life easier - sand bags or a slotted cardboard box does the same job as a specialist shooter clamp/vice/ rest.
Take new rifle. Strip and clean/ relube. Set it in your vice/ box/ stuffed Larry Potterfield etc.
Fit bore guide. Run a couple of solvent wet patches through the bore and give it a minute. Wet patch again, then run dry patches through. If they come out spotless, you're done. If getting grey/ black streaks then try either a patch of brake cleaner or the nylon brush through a bore solvent wet barrel.
Can be a pain, but do until you get a dry white patch out.
Remove bore guide and carefully wipe out chamber.
Fire first shot. Pause to marvel at what a great rifle you bought
Repeat the above. This time as you push the cleaning rod up the bore, let it feedback to you what's going on.
Likely it'll be harder to push than the first time. There's a good chance you feel particular resistance about 7-9" ahead of the chamber.
You need to get the barrel back to pristine. Give the solvent time to work. When you think you are there, hold the final white, dry patch about an inch short of the muzzle and have a close look in bright light. If you see any streaks, keep going.
This is the impractical bit for those without ready range access. Have a read of the notes on the Border Barrels website - they leave Bore Foam in overnight - effectively firing one shot a day. That simply may not work for most people time wise.
Very careful and thats VERY - use of JB compound can speed things a little. But far better to allow chemical rather than mechanical action to shift the fouling.
Fire second shot. Repeat as above. This time there will likely be an easier push through the barrel. It wont be perfect, but it will get easier - if not this time, then at some point over the first 5-7 rounds.
Repeat process for at least first ten rounds - it will make a difference.
Given freehand and time, I will do this over however long it takes. Until the point is reached where I can tell by experience that the rod 'feels right'. Smoothly going up the entire length of the bore. Check with white patch at this stage and there should be very minimal or non existent streaks. Dry, the bore should be starting to look polished.
Most Tikkas/Sako/Howa its between 8-14 rounds in total. Sauers/ Blaser tend to be there within 5-6 rounds.
Brownings/ Ruger/ Remington - 15-20.
Thereafter repeat after every 5 rounds for at least two cycles.
A lot of effort? Yep - but you are investing up front. Think of the ammo you'll save in the long run - many rifles will behave without needing a fouling shot after proper break-in. Cleaning will tend to be a couple of wet patches, wait 15 minutes, final wet patch and three dry and you're done.
Many will disagree - that's fine. I often have to abridge this process with clients collecting new rifles - where ( understandably ) they want to be the first to shoot it. Even abridged, they can feel the difference and the improvement over 5 or 6 rounds.
Let us know how you get on.
Must marry her ASAP!!!
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