I'm done here.
K
K
Full length or neck resize
- Thread starter Popa ray
- Start date
Thanks for your help K
Ray
Adding suggestions to a newbie that can both confuse and cause unnecessary problems is not helping.
Keep it simple.
Full length resize all cases after firing. Your then creating little clones that will all fit the chamber all of the time. Not, they may fit depending on case expansion.
Keep it simple.
Full length resize all cases after firing. Your then creating little clones that will all fit the chamber all of the time. Not, they may fit depending on case expansion.
Highlandsjohn
Well-Known Member
When the (Lee) collet die is set correctly.. no. It simply squeezes the neck to the de-capping pin..a very simple process..
deeangeo
Well-Known Member
Absolutely not.
Not ever.
Whether you use a collet neck die or any other type of neck sizing die, nothing else other than the case neck if affected in any way.
deeangeo
Well-Known Member
The best way to set up your full length resizing die.
Great video and very informative, thanks.
The video is fine if you happen to have a variable set of shellholders to alter the amount of shoulder bump based on the shell holder making contact with the die
OP
Set up you FL die so the brass ONLY JUST CHAMBERS IN YOUR RIFLE
if you set it up as per the instructions (Shell holder touching die when raised to limit, 1/8-1/4 turn more when ram is down)
you can easily be sizing the case too much, making it smaller than the chamber by an amount that is not ideal
screw the FL die close to touching the shell holder
Ideally use brass that doesn't chamber in your rifle
size it, test chamber it, ideally with the spring tension of the bolt removed
if it doesnt chamber, screw the die down 1/8-1/4 turn (easiest way is in the dies that have a hex nut on them to turn one point, a 1/6th)
rinse and repeat until you can chamber with no tension in the bolt close
Jumping straight in to max sizing on a FL die as the instructions indicate assumes that the die and the chamber are at the same point in the SAAMI/CIP chamber spec range
They never are
OP
Set up you FL die so the brass ONLY JUST CHAMBERS IN YOUR RIFLE
if you set it up as per the instructions (Shell holder touching die when raised to limit, 1/8-1/4 turn more when ram is down)
you can easily be sizing the case too much, making it smaller than the chamber by an amount that is not ideal
screw the FL die close to touching the shell holder
Ideally use brass that doesn't chamber in your rifle
size it, test chamber it, ideally with the spring tension of the bolt removed
if it doesnt chamber, screw the die down 1/8-1/4 turn (easiest way is in the dies that have a hex nut on them to turn one point, a 1/6th)
rinse and repeat until you can chamber with no tension in the bolt close
Jumping straight in to max sizing on a FL die as the instructions indicate assumes that the die and the chamber are at the same point in the SAAMI/CIP chamber spec range
They never are
Like you i'm a relative newbie to reloading and also load at present for 2 x .222.
I full length re-size using a lee die set and neck crimp, using N130, Vmax 50/53gr , ppu brass, no chasing the lands just book oal, and consistently get 1/2" groups from both rifles. To date i've found no problems using lee dies.
Regards
Mike
Go on to you tube and search for guy who calls himself Panhandle Precision, he's a guy living in a picturesque shooting area in northern Idaho, he does loads of very helpful and informative videos; really does know his stuff and the videos are great and easy to follow (Helped me a lot when I first started loading) Take a look
savdp
Well-Known Member
Being new to reloading, I would encourage you to stick with full length resizing and following the information in the reloading manuals regarding seating depths, etc. It is always possible to eek out more accuracy by changing parameters, equipment, etc. but don’t be in a rush to do it all at once.
Focus on setting up a rigid reloading bench (as often there is too much flex there to be consistent) and learn to make consistent ammunition. This will likely bring a significant increase in accuracy out your rifle. Measure your cases and sort the different brands, as this will effect accuracy but is easy to do.
If these are stalking rifles, you will likely achieve more than adequate accuracy doing this. If it is for target use, then there is a lot more that can be done to improve accuracy further.
Sean.
Focus on setting up a rigid reloading bench (as often there is too much flex there to be consistent) and learn to make consistent ammunition. This will likely bring a significant increase in accuracy out your rifle. Measure your cases and sort the different brands, as this will effect accuracy but is easy to do.
If these are stalking rifles, you will likely achieve more than adequate accuracy doing this. If it is for target use, then there is a lot more that can be done to improve accuracy further.
Sean.
I FL size everything.
I did toy with just neck sizing but eventually the shoulders get bumped out and then you get problems chambering the rounds, so after that I swapped to just full length sizing.
Its just less aggro - you take everything back to factory spec and you know it'll work.
I did toy with just neck sizing but eventually the shoulders get bumped out and then you get problems chambering the rounds, so after that I swapped to just full length sizing.
Its just less aggro - you take everything back to factory spec and you know it'll work.
Orion
Well-Known Member
Especially if something big an ‘orrible is likely to be coming towards you.
Some of the straight pull rifles don’t have the same camming effect as a traditional bolt action - for example the Helix has a short transition from linear to rotary movement into battery - and full length resize can ensure it goes smoothly.
Sooner or later you will need to bump the case, you can't just neck resize for ever. Better to do something consistently rather than neck size then the odd fl resize.
So a Redding style body die lets you nudge the case back just a little bit, say 2 thou (helped by the use of the competition shell holders that control how much). Whether you use a bushing style neck die or the excellent (possibly better, shhh don't tell) Lee Collet die (much cheaper) or an expander mandrel is up to you.
That approach means you work the brass as little as possible but get a very consistent case volume, a straight neck and consistent neck tension.
If you have done all that then you really should use a competition level seating die, they are a class apart.
You should be seeing runout ~ 1 thou no probs. The straighter the bullet the better they shoot. Consistent tension = more consistent muzzle velocity which doesn't really make a difference until you get to ranges well beyond stalking ranges.
Its harder to describe it than do it. Its actually very simple in practice and not really much more effort than using a FL set but with better results
So a Redding style body die lets you nudge the case back just a little bit, say 2 thou (helped by the use of the competition shell holders that control how much). Whether you use a bushing style neck die or the excellent (possibly better, shhh don't tell) Lee Collet die (much cheaper) or an expander mandrel is up to you.
That approach means you work the brass as little as possible but get a very consistent case volume, a straight neck and consistent neck tension.
If you have done all that then you really should use a competition level seating die, they are a class apart.
You should be seeing runout ~ 1 thou no probs. The straighter the bullet the better they shoot. Consistent tension = more consistent muzzle velocity which doesn't really make a difference until you get to ranges well beyond stalking ranges.
Its harder to describe it than do it. Its actually very simple in practice and not really much more effort than using a FL set but with better results
Hector H Taylor
Member
Do you find that the neck is over tight when FL sizing?
Do you find that the neck is over tight when FL sizing?
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