Full of myself.

[Muir]

To some of you this is going to seem silly, but I am really proud of myself. I am no mechanic. I hate working on autos and see it as a necessary evil... and usually if a job is too complicated I hire someone.

The last week of evenings I have spent installing a new timing chain and guides on my 1986 Toyota 4x4 pickup. (Hilux to you guys) When I bought it there was an audible timing chain rattle that ultimately turned out to be the chain tensioner having gone tits up. I've had the parts for a few months but needed above freezing temps to induce me to start.

I've finally I got it done. I replaced the chain, sprockets, timing chain guides (with steel ones) chain tensioner, the timing chain cover (new) the oil pump, the water pump all the hoses and the belt. Replaced the distributor cap and rotor and plug wires as well. Today I adjusted the valves and double checked the timing. All is good so far: No leaks. No problems after 4o miles of driving.

Like I said, to the more mechanically inclined this is nothing. For me? It was a big deal! ~Muir

 

[digger9523]

To some of you this is going to seem silly, but I am really proud of myself. I am no mechanic. I hate working on autos and see it as a necessary evil... and usually if a job is too complicated I hire someone.

The last week of evenings I have spent installing a new timing chain and guides on my 1986 Toyota 4x4 pickup. (Hilux to you guys) When I bought it there was an audible timing chain rattle that ultimately turned out to be the chain tensioner having gone tits up. I've had the parts for a few months but needed above freezing temps to induce me to start.

I've finally I got it done. I replaced the chain, sprockets, timing chain guides (with steel ones) chain tensioner, the timing chain cover (new) the oil pump, the water pump all the hoses and the belt. Replaced the distributor cap and rotor and plug wires as well. Today I adjusted the valves and double checked the timing. All is good so far: No leaks. No problems after 4o miles of driving.

Like I said, to the more mechanically inclined this is nothing. For me? It was a big deal! ~Muir

I can't help but lament at the deals you may have missed down at the gun store while you were playing grease monkey!

 

[charadam]

Nearly as satisfying as getting a difficult rifle to shoot!

 

[kennyc]

another taliwagon hits the roads again!




taliwagon

 

[Muir]

Yup. That looks like mine, too. Right down to the rust slots on the back!
While I would love to have mine a diesel, the 22R gasoline engine that is in it now is reputed to be tough as nails. There is a You Tube vid of a a fellow down in the US south taking a stock truck off of a used car lot and running a mud bog race. He loses the alternator belt, then a piston, gets out of the bog he is in, enters another deep bog, drops a second piston, pulls out and finishes the race on two cylinders. That's tough.~Muir

 

[Harry mac]

The best part about this thread is seeing an American go into print with the phrase "tits up". Must be talking to us Limeys too much, it's rubbing off on him.
Well done with the truck though.

 

[Markfox]

Fair play to you


im prety competent around cars and machinery i used to do mechanics and im now an engineer

but to be fair i wouldnt have tackled that little lot id have got someone else to do it as if they get it wrong its there fault lol

 

[Hornet 6]

Well done Muir, as you said not a big deal to a mechanic, but a challenge for most DIY'ers, and not a pleasant job
for the full timer who is used to a heated workshop with a ramp, I used to do it for a living, these days I pay someone. Lol

Neil.

 

[Muir]

Thanks guys! I have 200 miles on the rework and no drips or funny sounds from under the hood. Now a seal on the transfer case output shaft, shock absorbers, and a new ignition switch and lock/tumbler assembly. That will be Saturday. I've been driving it to work the last few days: Had two offers to buy it already! (Rust holes, dents and all. ) ~Muir

 

[Muir]

More auto mechanics buy a rank amateur on the Toyota. Did the shock absorbers, the ignition switch and tumblers (not pleasant) but not the output shaft seal. When i looked at the area originally there was remnant of a oily/greasy sludge on the undeside of the chassis and body. This weekend i could see that whatever caused it was not coming from the output shaft as I'd originally guessed. A check of the transfer case levels (and transmission levels) showed them topped off. I thought it might be brake fluid from the lines passing through the area but the levels are full as they have always been. I am confused but driving the truck regardless. My guess is that it's sludge from an overzealous greasing of the zerks on the universal joints. Any thoughts anybody?~Muir

PS: The truck seems to be running fine.

 

[haloutdoors]

Well done mate, that's no mean feat for anyone who has no real mechanical experience. But that said there is no substitute for a common sense approach. I hope it stays leak free for you.

I think you're probably right about the UJ grease flying about. Oh and as far as they are concerned there is no such thing as too much grease. (Within the realms of sense anyway.)
ATB. Hal.

 

[bogtrotter]

Thanks guys! I have 200 miles on the rework and no drips or funny sounds from under the hood. Now a seal on the transfer case output shaft, shock absorbers, and a new ignition switch and lock/tumbler assembly. That will be Saturday. I've been driving it to work the last few days: Had two offers to buy it already! (Rust holes, dents and all. ) ~Muir

That lot will be nothing compared to what you have just done, the seal on the output shaft is easy just need to make sure you have the right sized drift to make sure you seat the new seal square.

 

[bogtrotter]

Ah missed your post are you sure, its not coming from the output shaft does not need to be much of a leak, the spinning prop and forward motion of the vehicle will spread a little oil over quite a big area, if its not the shaft I don/t know could be grease from UJs I suppose, clean it off and see if it reappears I guess.

 

[Muir]

Thanks for the replies guys. Bog: I'll look again. It must be a very tiny leak because like I said, I topped the case off 300 miles ago and it still drizzles out when I pull the fill screw so the levels haven't' dropped any. And there are no drips on the driveway. I'll do as you suggest and keep an eye on it.~Muir

 

[private fraser]

Well done Muir.
Can you tell us your rates for Hilux repairs please...excluding the cost of flights of course

 

[joe soapy]

Thanks for the replies guys. Bog: I'll look again. It must be a very tiny leak because like I said, I topped the case off 300 miles ago and it still drizzles out when I pull the fill screw so the levels haven't' dropped any. And there are no drips on the driveway. I'll do as you suggest and keep an eye on it.~Muir

Leaks were a ploy used extensively by LR to try to stop chassis corrosion, didnt realise toyota had tried it as well.

If output shaft leaking its worth checking tailshaft bearing. rear wheel bearings can take a beating if towing a lot or carrying heavy loads.
If a beam front axel, check the drag link, its adjustable and can wear, if IFS check idler for wear.
Keep a spare UJ on hand, seems to be a consumable.
checkout Milner off road for spares, i think they export and are cheap

 

[Muir]

Leaks were a ploy used extensively by LR to try to stop chassis corrosion, didnt realise toyota had tried it as well.

If output shaft leaking its worth checking tailshaft bearing. rear wheel bearings can take a beating if towing a lot or carrying heavy loads.
If a beam front axel, check the drag link, its adjustable and can wear, if IFS check idler for wear.
Keep a spare UJ on hand, seems to be a consumable.
checkout Milner off road for spares, i think they export and are cheap

Thanks. I'll research all of this.
No problems for parts I can get plenty of spares here in the US.~Muir

 

[Muir]

This is getting surreal.
I have never taken apart any kind of locking hub for a four wheel drive but saw that my locking hub wasn't going all the way round to "LOCK". I looked on the internet at You Tube and watched some vids on removing Toyota manual hubs. The terms were all gibberish but I watched. Frustrated, I went out and pulled my inner hub off to have a look, and thought "That don't look right!" and pushed the big spring-loaded gear-looking thingy back against the hub and gave is a half twist where it locked in place. I thought I'd seen guys in the vids do that. I put it back in and now the 4WD works as it should. Two thumbs up to You Tube. I'm still not sure how I recognized that gear thing as being out of place, exactly...~Muir

 

[george joy]

This is getting surreal.
I have never taken apart any kind of locking hub for a four wheel drive but saw that my locking hub wasn't going all the way round to "LOCK". I looked on the internet at You Tube and watched some vids on removing Toyota manual hubs. The terms were all gibberish but I watched. Frustrated, I went out and pulled my inner hub off to have a look, and thought "That don't look right!" and pushed the big spring-loaded gear-looking thingy back against the hub and gave is a half twist where it locked in place. I thought I'd seen guys in the vids do that. I put it back in and now the 4WD works as it should. Two thumbs up to You Tube. I'm still not sure how I recognized that gear thing as being out of place, exactly...~Muir

I think you need to take a break from your mechanical efforts and start going back to the gunshops before they send out a search and rescue party looking for you

 

[Muir]

I think you need to take a break from your mechanical efforts and start going back to the gunshops before they send out a search and rescue party looking for you

Maybe.... but after all the car parts I've no money left to buy guns! ~Muir