Is my rifle knackered

[HonestJohn]

Indeed

He just looked back at your old threads/posts where you stated you had a Bergara.

 

[Stevie/P]

He just looked back at your old threads/posts where you stated you had a Bergara.

Haha not so i recognise the thread protecter as I once owned a Bergara B14 so I’m familiar with that brand of rifle.

 

[Rory]

A couple of observations if I may. I use Eliminator too, great stuff.
I would say avoid putting the rifle near the radiator before putting it in the safe - the safe is probably colder, so you could be causing issues with condensation. Room temperature is fine.
Once you've run through with Eliminator and then dry patched, it might pay off to then run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel to protect the steel from moisture. This light oil layer can be removed with a dry or meths soaked patch when you take it out for the next shoot/stalk.
Also, get a moisture trap or silica gel packs to put in your safe. You'll be surprised by how much moisture they will absorb.

 

[Smellydog]

It's not knackered. Needs a polish.
Don't store muzzle down.
Don't leave mod on coming in from the cold.

 

[kenbro]

If you left it on damp and some residue ran back in the barrel and then was left there, this can cause pitting. Always take mod off asap, or stand muzzle down on the mod whilst bringing back up to room temp.

As noted, it will likely shoot as it used to, but worst case get it slightly shortened and re-crowned, it’s a £50-£75 job unless someone pulls your pants down.

Can never see a reason to not take the mod off before casing /putting rifle back in vehicle.
Kb.

 

[kenbro]

A couple of observations if I may. I use Eliminator too, great stuff.
I would say avoid putting the rifle near the radiator before putting it in the safe - the safe is probably colder, so you could be causing issues with condensation. Room temperature is fine.
Once you've run through with Eliminator and then dry patched, it might pay off to then run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel to protect the steel from moisture. This light oil layer can be removed with a dry or meths soaked patch when you take it out for the next shoot/stalk.
Also, get a moisture trap or silica gel packs to put in your safe. You'll be surprised by how much moisture they will absorb.

I thought it wasn’t a good idea to start shooting with a completely dry bore.
I remember years ago, Pac-Nor (Remember them?) used to advise against it.
Ken.

 

[Rory]

I thought it wasn’t a good idea to start shooting with a completely dry bore. I remember years ago, Pac-Nor (Remember them?) used to advise against it. Ken.

I've always been told to have a clean, dry bore and chamber. The rationale is that it's a known starting point (rather than ~10 rounds have been fired, or next time ~20 rounds have been fired) and avoids 'dieseling' or creating excessive pressures (even resulting in bulged barrels in the extreme cases) with an oily bore, which can also be unpredictable.

 

[HonestJohn]

Oiled chamber is a complete no no. Oiled bore is just a bad idea

 

[kenbro]

Some extremes here….dieseling, oily bores, oiled bore and oily chambers!
A bore that’s just not dry (Alcohol patches?) doesn’t have to be any of the above.
Ken.
Ps. One dry patch through a bore that had an oily patch through it, isn’t going to be a dry bore.

 

[Rory]

Some extremes here….dieseling, oily bores, oiled bore and oily chambers!
A bore that’s just not dry (Alcohol patches?) doesn’t have to be any of the above.
Ken.
Ps. One dry patch through a bore that had an oily patch through it, isn’t going to be a dry bore.

An alcohol patch will remove oils, but will also evaporate, or if excessively 'wet' may even attract water through the hygroscopic nature of alcohol.

My preference prior to shooting (starting with a stored, lightly oiled barrel) is to run a meths soaked patch through (also hygroscopic) followed by a clean, dry patch to remove any excess. That way I know it's as close to 'the same' for every first, cold bore shot.

Everyone has their own way, I'm not trying to change that, just communicating my thought processes behind what I do.

 

[kenbro]

Yep, each to their own methods.
After cleaning and dry patching a barrel, I run a wet Lock Ease patch through and then stand the rifle muzzle down to allow the carrier to evaporate.
Job done for me.
Ken.

 

[kenbro]

This from PAC-Nor.
Ken.

 

[Smellydog]

Yep, each to their own methods.
After cleaning and dry patching a barrel, I run a wet Lock Ease patch through and then stand the rifle muzzle down to allow the carrier to evaporate.
Job done for me.
Ken.

All I would add to muzzle down is that if the muzzle is on say rubber and is kind of sealed any water vapour present can end up trapped down there!

 

[Utectok]

I shoot…. finish shooting take of moderator and stick it in cabinet. Clean back to bare metal once every 150-200 rounds inspected with borescope. If it’s wet I’ll stick it in the airing cupboard overnight.

 

[Ronin]

Ooohh, contentious

But possibly accurate ,,,,in that it will have a nice bloom of rust

 

[kenbro]

All I would add to muzzle down is that if the muzzle is on say rubber and is kind of sealed any water vapour present can end up trapped down there!

It’s usually on folded T shirt.
Ken.

 

[kenbro]

I shoot…. finish shooting take of moderator and stick it in cabinet. Clean back to bare metal once every 150-200 rounds inspected with borescope. If it’s wet I’ll stick it in the airing cupboard overnight.

Do you take the cabinet with you when foxing/stalking?
Sorry.
Ken.

 

[Smellydog]

It’s usually on folded T shirt.
Ken.

That can hold water Ken.

 

[kenbro]

That can hold water Ken.

It’s only there in a heated room for up to an hour to allow the carrier to evaporate.
Then it stands like a Sentinel in its cabinet.
Ken.
PS. Been doing it since 2009 without any rust appearing and it makes the bullets slip along the bore very efficiently!

 

[Grannysmith]

I use a vivarium heat mat in my cabinet very low heat but enough to stop condensation