Pulling bullets advice

.Skinner.

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Never pulled bullets before and need some advice please! Some of these questions may seem stupid but like I say, it’s new to me and I want to be sure. Long story but a long time ago I loaded a bunch of .30-06 168gr Nosler bt, and now want to take them all apart! I have bought a kinetic hammer. Questions are:

1. I crimped these loads. Will that be a problem when trying to pull the bullets?
2. Once bullets are pulled and powder emptied, what do I do about the primer? Do I fire the empty cases in my rifle?! If so, anything in particular I need to think about when doing that?
3. In terms of using the brass again, should it all be full length resized due to the crimp I put on it?

Any help greatly appreciated.

many thanks
 
I would think it will depend what state of anneal your brass was and what you intend to use the new loads for...I had some which were also lightly crimped with the Lee FCD (not into a cannelure) and I just pulled the bullets, reduced the powder load and reinserted the bullets. I was surprised how little the POI difference was between those and the other rounds which had the correct load from the get go.

Unless it is a real problem (ie dangerous load) I would be inclined to use the current rounds for plinking and practice as they are, and then reload them from scratch. Why waste work already done?

Alan
 
My views

1. I crimped these loads. Will that be a problem when trying to pull the bullets? - Going to take a lot more effort.
2. Once bullets are pulled and powder emptied, what do I do about the primer? Do I fire the empty cases in my rifle?! If so, anything in particular I need to think about when doing that? - You can extract the live primers and use them again. Just be gentle and push it out using the depriming die. When I started reloading, did this for about 20 rounds without bursting any. Do wear eye/ hearing protection in case of a big bang.
3. In terms of using the brass again, should it all be full length resized due to the crimp I put on it? - Better with a full length resizing. Also better to avoid the crimp unless you are target shooting for competition. Haven't found much difference between crimed ones vs ones that was pushed in.
 
The problem with a hammer is they can damage the BTtip place a few patches inside ,the primer you can pop out as norm with a constant pressure , the powder will fly just empty into a dish then fish out the bullets , just resize without the decapping pin and shorted the sizing rod and reload or fling them at a target. Best option would have been use'g a collet puller and reuse all the parts ,
 
After breaking 3 kinetic hammers I gave the last one away, they are fine for pulling new reloads but hopeless for anything else.
I use a Forster puller and in 10 years it has only failed to pull one bullet.
Pull the bullet save the powder and then push out the primer with a decapping tool I did 75 last Saturday as I had sold the rifle.
Keith
 
Primers can be removed in the normal way with care. inertia pullers are ok but I use an adapted wire stripper in the press. Very easy
 
Electrical tape round some mole grip jaws, carefully raise the press ram with round held in shell holder until bullet and case neck are clear of where the die would sit, clamp the mole grips round the bullet, just above the neck, and lower the ram.

Press needs to be the 'O' frame type with enough leverage on it.
 
Get yourself a Hornady bullet puller for your press and the collets you need, when set up right they’re great. Then just neck size the brass also knocking the live primers out, it’ll be fine, just gan canny.
 
Another vote for pullers over hammers.
I will occasionally use a hammer to knock a bullet back out by a few thou if I overshoot when setting up a die but completely shifting well-seated bullets in more than a handful of rounds is no fun at all. By contrast, a good puller will make it an easy job, and leave your bullets undamaged and fit for re-use. The mole-grips/pliers approach does work but, depending on the bullets involved, may well render them unfit for anything but plinking.
Leave the primers in place if all you need to do is refill with a different powder charge, simply removing the decapping pin from the resizing die before resizing the neck. Don't forget to re-lube the neck or you may also need to buy a stuck case removal kit.
If removing the primers, gentle, progressive pressure will push them out undamaged and fit for re-use.
Finally, wear eye protection all the time when handling primers, powder and cartridges. I have never had anything go off unexpectedly, but it's not the probability that counts: it's the consequences.
 
Kinetic hammers have limited use & are time consuming. More effort required if using the hammer with crimped round, but it will do the job - eventually!
Foam/ear plug in the hammer is a must to preserve the bullet tip.
A bullet Puller is best by far. I use a Hornady Cam Lock bullet puller. Other makes are just fine though & make the job easy peasy.

Re-sizing the brass - Re-lube cases.
You can leave the primer in place. Simply Back off the de-priming rod so it's well inside the die & will not touch the primer.
Voila! Done!
Then check OAL of the case. If it needs trimming - trim the case mouth to correct length.
Reload with propellant & bullet as required.
Re crimp if that's what you do.
Job done.
 
Neck size with a mandrel type die or pull the decapping pin out of the expander ball in full size dies and resize the cases. After pulling bullets the neck tension will not be ideal nor consistent unless you resize the neck.
I've done this with thousands of pulldown 7.62 NATO brass as well as a number of my, uhm, "mistakes".
I've also pulled down factory 8x56 Hungarian and changed the powder charge to make them more pleasant to shoot.
No need to remove the primers unless they are a bad lot and the reason you're pulling the bullets.
 
I struggled to pull some .222 rounds that had been crimped with my kinetic puller. After taking advice on here I stopped hitting the kinetic puller on a block of hard wood and struck it on my anvil instead what a difference all done no problem.
That said it was only 20 odd rounds and I wouldn't want to do 100s.
 
Send the inertia hammer back, they’re not much good for crimped loads.
i have the RCBS collet system it takes a bit of getting set up but works well once youre comfortable with it. A friend in the states has the Hornady and upon looking up the RCBS said he wished he had bought it instead
Mmmm I've just pulled 14 factory federal copper with a kinetic hammer. Some took as much as 18 hits and some came out with 4.I put wadding in the hammer to protect the tips
 
I use a pair of these (see below) just remove the die and poke the bullet through the hole, grab it with the wire strippers then withdraw the case - job done. Bulletin is scrap but it’s quick, reliable and safe. Tip out the powder then press out the primer slowly. I’ve had a couple of super soft Rem61/2 primers go off but it’s no big deal - never had a problem with the other primers I use. As you’ve crimped (I do to with my Hornet rounds) I’d neck size and prep to prevent damage to the billet when reseating.
N
 

Attachments

  • ABEAAD09-37B4-4743-A9F0-BBC8C7658A37.webp
    ABEAAD09-37B4-4743-A9F0-BBC8C7658A37.webp
    5.1 KB · Views: 0
I have used both methods. I borrowed a puller for the press. Very easy once set up.
However I have pulled plenty of rounds crimped and not. With the humble kinetic hammer. Put a plug or piece of foam in. But the most effective way is to hit a solid object. I use the vice on my bench. As it is quicker than a wooden block (you lose energy).
Primers come out in a sizing die. Just be careful and wear eye/ear protection.
 
Back
Top