Pulling Bullets

I must ask: What kind of rifle and how old was it??
The actual gauge used to determine the safety of a chamber is called a "Field Gauge". When it fails a Field Gauge the chamber is unsafe. Closing on a "No-Go" gauge might have meant that your beautifully shooting rifle had a chamber .0005" longer than the NO-Go gauge and was perfectly safe. Go and NO GO gauges are used mostly in rebarreling rifles. It is the Field Gauge that determines safety.

From Brownells Catalogue describing Clymer gauges:

"Field gauges are essential tools for ensuring a safe chamber on used rifles. Slightly longer then a No-Go gauge, the Field gauge is used to measure the absolute maximum allowable, safe chamber headspace. If the bolt closes on a No-Go gauge, the Field gauge is used for an additional check. If the bolt then closes on the Field gauge, the rifle is considered unsafe to shoot, you’ll have to have the barrel set back and rechambered"

I hate to say it, but your gunsmith did you a terrible disservice and probably charged you for it. I'd go back and ask if the bolt closed on a Field Gauge and if he says yes, then ask to see the gauge. If he doesn't have one (lied) ask for your money back. ~Muir

( I never checked headspace on a customer's rifles without using a field gauge)
 
It's a Remington 700. .204 Semi custom. PAC NOR barrel Jewel trigger etc
Once he had done his bit he then re tried the two gauges he originally tried. One didn't close and the other did. Spot on he said.
Target crown. End cap made and head space done. £75
I have just taken the bolt apart to test the cases that I have resized and the bolt closes with very minimal effort. Where as the others are very stiff and didn't bother attempting to close the bolt. Gutted as I found another 20 rounds. So I have 80 that are no good.
 
Last edited:
Cab you not just seat the heads a little deeper - within SAAMI dimensions? BTW, I ask as a novice - not to give advice.

You mean bullets. The head referred to in headspace is the head of the cartridge, where the primer goes. It doesn't help that dealer advertise 'heads' when they mean bullets.

-JMS
 
It's a Remington 700. .204 Semi custom. PAC NOR barrel Jewel trigger etc
Once he had done his bit he then re tried the two gauges he originally tried. One didn't close and the other did. Spot on he said.
Target crown. End cap made and head space done. £75
I have just taken the bolt apart to test the cases that I have resized and the bolt closes with very minimal effort. Where as the others are very stiff and didn't bother attempting to close the bolt. Gutted as I found another 20 rounds. So I have 80 that are no good.
Sorry to hear that. It's not insurmountable - just a small bump in the road. Having the gunsmith set your barrel back did now damage other than to generate an inconvenience.

Is this the fellow who put on the PACNOR? ~Muir
 
No. The PACNOR was already fitted when I bought it.
I am intrigued as to how it will now shoot. It was stunning before hand.
It's a shame the load development has to start again due to new make of brass. Fingers crossed it's a quick process.
 
It's a Remington 700. .204 Semi custom. PAC NOR barrel Jewel trigger etc
Once he had done his bit he then re tried the two gauges he originally tried. One didn't close and the other did. Spot on he said.
Target crown. End cap made and head space done. £75
I have just taken the bolt apart to test the cases that I have resized and the bolt closes with very minimal effort. Where as the others are very stiff and didn't bother attempting to close the bolt. Gutted as I found another 20 rounds. So I have 80 that are no good.

good value for £75 I would say. At least your brass will hopefully last longer
 
Only time will tell. £75 I thought was ok.
Light winds this week and the twins are at the grandparents one night so hope to test it out.
Will report back.
 
Unfortunately I have now got 60 rounds that won't cycle.
I had my crown re done and found out I had head space issues.

really?
sounds more like mixed use and brand brass combined with an improperly set up full length die

pullers and kinetic hammers are easy to use and source
 
I have a kinetic hammer.
I have always been quite meticulous when it came to my brass. I had a batch that came with the rifle which had un known shot count. I just reloaded that twice while load developing. I bought the same brand of brass second hand which had been shot once. I FL sized and trimmed to what I had loaded pervious that gave excellent groups.
The last 80 loaded I didn't trim as they weren't that far out. They were fire formed so I just neck sized.
I am still about it all. But I thought I had done most things by the book. Bought some brand new brass of a different brand. FL sized them but not shot or loaded them yet. They cycle fine with no effort in the rifle after it's been fettled.
 
Ok. This is the events of tonight.


Winds light. 12 new nobler brass FL sized and cycle fine. 4 new loads to try. Plus 12 originals that cycle fine as well.

Needed to reset after the scope and complete rifle had been disassembled. POI was 3in high to start. Weird.
Zeroed in 3 shots and shot a 3 shot tight group as normal with the old loads. 32gr v max with horn any brass and 28gr powder.



Trying 40gr Bullets v max. 26gr and 26.5 gr. The 26 weren't great. The 26.5gr in a 5 shot group at 96 yards were through the same hole. Buzzing. i had a few more loads to try in the 32gr with the new Nosler brass. Put 3 in the mag and cycled the bolt. 'Ching' small cir clip popped out. Great. Just what I needed.

So so started to tackle down. Took the mod off only to find the newly crowned barrel was very dirty. Gave it a wipe but it's stained. It's like a light rust stain. Shiny as a new penny before the 15 rounds or so I just put through it. Is that normal? It's the only stainless barrel I have so it more noticeable. Surly it should just wipe clean? But it doesn't.
 
Out of interest if the rifle was shooting beautifully why did you have it recrowned? Resizing the brass really is no biggy. Hammer will do the job fine, put some sponge or tissue in the end to stop the bullet getting deformed as it comes out, I have an RCBS collet puller which is great for bigger calibres but for .224 which is the smallest I have I find the hammer better.

In terms of the rust stain are we talking externally? Is it a reflex mod? Could it be condensation building up in the mod and dripping then getting hot? Lots of harsh chemicals in moderator condensate, it's why they eat crowns if rifles are stored with the mod on
 
Back
Top