Tikka T1X

[Rob-E]

I don't know about CZ killer.
There are many more CZ rimfires in circulation than Tikkas, and CZs are still significantly cheaper than T1Xs.
However, if like me, you own Tikka centrefire rifles, the fact that the trigger in the T1X is the same as the T3s and the stocks are interchangeable does make it a bit of a no-brainer

Cheers

Bruce

You say that but I’m thinking of selling my 452 for a T1X 16” barrel. I’m still not sold as the CZ with 2 mags and scope cost me £100. However the really long barrel makes it annoying when using as a truck gun, and by the time I’ve cut the barrel down and reproofed it I may as well have bought a T1X

 

[ejg]

16" T1X stuck in my E-Tac4 stock. They fit into just about any T3 stock however one should check the bolt release lever pin if it is held by the stock. I have not tried if the pin falls out or if it is fixed somehow. It is in a different position compared to a T3.

From the third or fourth shot after taking out of the box. A few different types of ammo. 50m.
Small group was cci subsonic but had a larger group earlier (group above.)

Bottom metal in alu to go from CTR inlet to T1X

edi

 

[Muir]

This LOT of " Geco 22LR Semi Auto" worked particularly well in my T1X. Not as good as match ammo but very well indeed. ~Muir

 

[norcan]

My only two gripes with it...

3 grub screws holding the barrel in place with pressure.

There are a few equally simple ways of holding the barrel in place I wish they would opt for.
Obviously best of all it should be threaded like a propper rifle.

And its still not stainless.

 

[Muir]

One of Remington's toughest rimfire actions, the 590 series, had a series of locking lugs to handle the 46K pressure the 5mm Remington Rimfire Magnum cartridge generated. The barrel was held in by a cross drilled roll pin. They also used the same action in their 540 series 22LR target rifles which were known for durability and accuracy.

When I start hearing of T1X barrel falling out of their actions, I'll worry about the three screws that hold the barrel in place. Until then, I'll figure that Tikka knows what it's doing.~Muir

 

[redrbr]

Mine's in a Bifrost stock. I think it's a fine rifle.

 

[mealiejimmy]

My only two gripes with it...

3 grub screws holding the barrel in place with pressure.

There are a few equally simple ways of holding the barrel in place I wish they would opt for.
Obviously best of all it should be threaded like a propper rifle.

And its still not stainless.

Tikka have made a lot of rifles for many years, and I don't hear any reports of barrels falling off, so I think it's reasonable to say that they probably know a s88t load more about building rifles than you.
Any method of fitting a barrel to a rifle that is safe and secure is propper (sic)

Cheers

Bruce

 

[User00040]

One thing I would say against the T1x, the original stock is really not up to much.

My only two gripes with it...

3 grub screws holding the barrel in place with pressure.

There are a few equally simple ways of holding the barrel in place I wish they would opt for.
Obviously best of all it should be threaded like a propper rifle.

And its still not stainless.

On US forums some 22NRL/PRS guys have actually done barrel swaps on the T1x and had a lot of difficulty getting them out.

You won't manage with hand pressure that's for sure.

If you know what you are doing you can use the screw system to adjust headspace as well.

Not many people would be happy to part with the coin required for a stainless model.

 

[Danny Fireblade]

I’ve got the Tikka HMR 16” so basically the same rifle and a CZ 22lr
Id pick the Tikka every time, better trigger, better bolt, better safety, better magazine.

I was thinking of getting the T1x .17HMR, what are your thoughts of it?

 

[norcan]

Tikka have made a lot of rifles for many years, and I don't hear any reports of barrels falling off, so I think it's reasonable to say that they probably know a s88t load more about building rifles than you.
Any method of fitting a barrel to a rifle that is safe and secure is propper (sic)

Cheers

Bruce

Stupid simple idea.. Drilling 3 small indentetions matching the diameter of the grub screws, into the barrel where the 3 grub screws contact the barrel, would make it nearly impossible for anything to go wrong.. It could not be pulled out, twisted out or knocked loose. Forever.

Now its only held in place by the clamping force of 3 small screws against one side of the action.. And some Loctite.


Saw a video on a few weeks back of an American having a "accident". Because the custom barrel of his T1x was not pushed far enough into the action before he tightened those screws. Off by 30.000 of an inch? How do you write that in mm?
Ruptured the 22lr case, ruined his magwell and his magazine disintegrated.. Luckily nothing happened to him.
(OR the barrel was eventually pushed out because he didn't tighten the screews enough after swapping it??)


Found the video.


And explanation:

 

[User00040]

Stupid simple idea.. Drilling 3 small indentetions matching the diameter of the grub screws, into the barrel where the 3 grub screws contact the barrel, would make it nearly impossible for anything to go wrong.. It could not be pulled out, twisted out or knocked loose. Forever.

Now its only held in place by the clamping force of 3 small screws against one side of the action.. And some Loctite.


Saw a video on a few weeks back of an American having a "accident". Because the custom barrel of his T1x was not pushed far enough into the action before he tightened those screws. Off by 30.000 of an inch? How do you write that in mm?
Ruptured the 22lr case, ruined his magwell and his magazine disintegrated.. Luckily nothing happened to him.

Don't change the barrel then?

If there is one type of rifle that does not need to be modified its probably a bolt action rimfire.

And as I said previously, the system can be used to set headspace if you know what you are doing.

 

[Musketeer]

I have two T1x rifles, both .17 hmr. One dedicated for night use with a photon XT the other wears a Leupold VX Freedom.

I think these rifles are great value and I'm really pleased with them. Off a bench at 100m, I have managed half inch groups or less.

 

[The Bear]

Given the chance CZ had to present a huge step forward with the 457, it's hardly set the market alight and also has one or two awkward design factors. On the other hand CZ will hopefully soon be available with some interesting stock options so their handling by SGC will be an interesting new factor for them. Tikka also have some quite funky stocks on their way so it's going to be great to see what rolls out first. The big thing for me though is Tikka made a bold leap forwards with mag design and though the 457 is a sleeker rifle than 452/455, the old style magazine still looks clunky with only five rounds in the flush (ish) fit.

 

[JackD032]

I had my new Tikka T1X in .17 HMR out for the first time yesterday to zero and get to comfortable with it. Bore sighted, then got it on paper at 50 and then zero’d to the Hawke Sidewinder 4-16x50 at 100.
Using Hornady 17gr V-Max it was consistently within MOA (I picked a practically zero wind day). It’ll shoot flat from 30m out to 130m. Next time I’ll push it to 200m to work out holdover.
Very impressed with this rifle and the quality is a step up from my CZ 455 22lr. The only change I’ll make is to adjust the trigger from factory setting to a tad lighter. Looks a very simple process on YouTube.
Also very impressed with the Wildcat moderator, not as much noise as I was expecting.

 

[mealiejimmy]

Trigger adjustment is easy, and the good thing is that you can't unscrew the adjuster too far to make it dangerously light.
You can however, fit a lighter spring and then things can get a bit iffy

Cheers

Bruce

 

[Foxshot]

the only t1x I have used had terrible feeding issues with several types of ammunition and 3 different magazines. The owner eventually sold it

 

[farmer7]

I hadn't seen this thread until now - I had just PM'd Muir asking advice as I know his have been great.

I'm a bit disappointed with mine. Probably averaging about 1" for 5 shots at 50 yards. My Sako P94 is half of that.

Subsonic HP tried:

New Eley Subsonic (white box) 1.5"
Old Eley Subsonic (green box) 0.9"
CCI Subsonic 0.85"
RWS Subsonic 2.0"
Winchester Subsonic Max 42gr 0.80"

also tried Eley Match and was disappointed with 1.25" groups.

Surprised that the better stuff - RWS and Eley Match are amongst the worst!

I've tried adjusting stock torque between 15 and 40 in lbs with no major noticable difference.

Got a couple of T3's in GRS stocks and wondered about trying it in a GRS but not sure that's going to make much difference seeing how most folks shoot so well in factory spec. I didn't try it's own stock, I dropped it straight into a T3X Supervarmint stock so I would benefit from a higher cheek piece and longer LOP.

Anyway if anyone has any ideas or suggestions gratefully received!

 

[Puds]

I’ve got a T1x in .17hmr & am planning on buying another in .22lr. It’s a fantastic little rifle, and especially good in the truck as it’s so compact & pointable when shooting out of the windows.

 

[User00040]

I hadn't seen this thread until now - I had just PM'd Muir asking advice as I know his have been great.

I'm a bit disappointed with mine. Probably averaging about 1" for 5 shots at 50 yards. My Sako P94 is half of that.

Subsonic HP tried:

New Eley Subsonic (white box) 1.5"
Old Eley Subsonic (green box) 0.9"
CCI Subsonic 0.85"
RWS Subsonic 2.0"
Winchester Subsonic Max 42gr 0.80"

also tried Eley Match and was disappointed with 1.25" groups.

Surprised that the better stuff - RWS and Eley Match are amongst the worst!

I've tried adjusting stock torque between 15 and 40 in lbs with no major noticable difference.

Got a couple of T3's in GRS stocks and wondered about trying it in a GRS but not sure that's going to make much difference seeing how most folks shoot so well in factory spec. I didn't try it's own stock, I dropped it straight into a T3X Supervarmint stock so I would benefit from a higher cheek piece and longer LOP.

Anyway if anyone has any ideas or suggestions gratefully received!

Are you shooting it off a bipod?

In a factory stock mine shot better by holding the fore-end. I also lightened the trigger significantly as it came with quite a heavy pull.

How long have you had it, many rounds through it (guessing so as you have tried many types of ammo)? Mine was OK until I hit the 200 round mark then it improved steadily and has been fantastic, even after a clean!

I've been using the Eley and Winchester subsonic you have mentioned and I am getting good accuracy.

Have you checked the scope?

 

[Whitester]

If it’s a new rifle it will probably need a few hundred rounds through it before the groups tighten up