Tikka t3x .243 issues needs a rebarrell

I have a tikka t3x lite in .243 which i brought second hand. I left it stored with the stalon mod on (idiot i know) got it out to shoot it few months later and soon realised the rounds were clipping the mod. Had it taken to gunsmith who advised it needed to be recrowned and lose 2inches off the barrell due to corrosion.

Replaced mod for another new stalon x108.

Now with a 17.5inch barrell it will not group well ive tried lots of different ammo and the best is the norma tipstrike nice tight group at 100yrds but as soon as you push out past 100yrds the group opens up and is all ober the place.

Ive decided to rebarrell but with a lead ban on the cards im wondering if i should rebarrell to a new calibre.

I use this rifle for mainly foxing and the odd roe and muntjac. I have a 308 that i use for the fallow.

Question is....... have i missed anything regarding the 243 as to why ive still got grouping issues or is it purely the shirt barrel and if i rebarrell then should i go for another 243 or should i go 6.5CM or something else. Anyone else been in the same situation ??
 
Has anyone else shot the weapon - if it’s grouping at 100 there is no reason it shouldn’t at distance too
Yes 3 of us have tried it at 150yrds and it opens up to the size of a football no consistency at all but they will touch each other at 100yrds.
 
Thats really odd (not saying I disbelieve you). I can see why you don’t have any confidence in it and are considering a re-barrel.
 
Thats really odd (not saying I disbelieve you). I can see why you don’t have any confidence in it and are considering a re-barrel.
It wont group at 100yrd with other ammo ive tried lots from 55s up to 100gr sako gameheads its all over the place. Just the norma 76gr actually hold a group but only at 100yrds

Not my shooting either as ive group tested my 308 and get them touching and tight at 300yrds with obviously more recoil ect.
 
I have come back to the 243. Now that the legal requirement for min of 100gn is reduced to 80gn here in Scotland its a very good all round calibre, particularly if tending to shoot smaller deer.

If you are going to rebarrel go with a 1 in 8” twist as that does give huge flexibility especially if want long ballistically efficient bullets over longer ranges. But for deer stalking probably no need.

Sticking with 243 win means no paperwork for variations etc.
 
I have a tikka t3x lite in .243 which i brought second hand. I left it stored with the stalon mod on (idiot i know) got it out to shoot it few months later and soon realised the rounds were clipping the mod. Had it taken to gunsmith who advised it needed to be recrowned and lose 2inches off the barrell due to corrosion.

Replaced mod for another new stalon x108.

Now with a 17.5inch barrell it will not group well ive tried lots of different ammo and the best is the norma tipstrike nice tight group at 100yrds but as soon as you push out past 100yrds the group opens up and is all ober the place.

Ive decided to rebarrell but with a lead ban on the cards im wondering if i should rebarrell to a new calibre.

I use this rifle for mainly foxing and the odd roe and muntjac. I have a 308 that i use for the fallow.

Question is....... have i missed anything regarding the 243 as to why ive still got grouping issues or is it purely the shirt barrel and if i rebarrell then should i go for another 243 or should i go 6.5CM or something else. Anyone else been in the same situation ??
I had a similar issue when I modified my BSA .222 due to corrosion at the muzzle. I trimmed off about 15mm of barrel and recrowned. It had previously grouped well with 55gr bullets but after the modification they wouldn't group. But I fixed the problem by dropping down to 50gr VMAX bullets running at higher velocities. I guess trimming the barrel changed its harmonics. So I suggest try reloading the 76gr bullets to a slightly faster velocity than you previously used as that may stabilise them better.
 
are they punching holes at 150 or keyholing ? mayeb they're losing stability around after the 100 and tumbling.
 
Your decision will depend on how quick local Plod would take for a variation if you choose something different to what's on your certificate. They usually want you to first dispose of the rifle you are replacing.
If rebarreling in .243, you could get a little longer barrel than is readily available with a new rifle.
 
Your experience with tight grouping at 100 yds., but all over the place at 150 does seem strange. Normally group size is proportional to distance. My first thought was it's a stability issue, as suggested above by DaveNeal. I suspect that your Tikka T3X has a 1:10 twist, and this is marginal for many 100-grain .243 bullets. However, you have stated that the 55s don't group well either, and so it may not be twist. Bbell's suggest of checking some key factors makes a lot of sense, particularly the action screws and scope-mount screws.
 
Your experience with tight grouping at 100 yds., but all over the place at 150 does seem strange. Normally group size is proportional to distance. My first thought was it's a stability issue, as suggested above by DaveNeal. I suspect that your Tikka T3X has a 1:10 twist, and this is marginal for many 100-grain .243 bullets. However, you have stated that the 55s don't group well either, and so it may not be twist. Bbell's suggest of checking some key factors makes a lot of sense, particularly the action screws and scope-mount screws.
Yes 1:10 twist ive tried 55gr up to 100gr and the 76g tipstrikes are the only ones to group and well. Within half inch. But 150+ its just not consistant at all they dont even end up close to one another im leaving time between shots. Rifle is not hot.

Ive moved back to 100yrds and they touch again its really strange.
 
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