Unusual Blaser Bore Corrosion

SJC

Well-Known Member
Is there anyone out there who has returned to there car/hotel/house after a day's stalking in South Scotland, in the rain, to find a crystallise like rust within the bore of their rifle?

The rust seemed to literally cling to the sides of the bore like crystals on a cave wall. In this instance along a third of the barrel starting at the chamber. All whom I speak to have not heard of such a thing but I am told it can be down to the moderator, acid rain (would have thought that would affect the outside as well) and other environmental conditions.

Just looking to see if this is a common problem as to date no one else has suffered.
 
Was it definitely clean when you set off in the morning?

Were you you carrying it muzzle up or down?

Was there anything on the end of the bullet?

If no bullet was in the chamber were there any crystals in the chamber?

For the crystal to form in one day it doesn't sound like rust formed from just iron and water. That is normally more of rust bloom/stain/discolouration than a crystal.

Could it be something precipitating out of whatever was left in the barrel from the cleaning/maintenance mixed up with the condensation/rain getting into the barrel?

Did it wipe out easily?

Alan
 
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I got this on my rifle after only two hours of light rain and it was very difficult to clean.

I got a new barrel from Blaser, no question asked.

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I`ve used several Sauer`s, Sako`s and CZ`s in some very inclement weather and never experienced inner barrel corrosion.
That was until I purchased a Blaser. There barrels must be made out of some shitty type of steel because I frequently find rust in the bore when cleaning/patching the gun out if I haven't fired it on a trip out.
 
Blaser barrels are supposed to be made to a NATO spec., if I recall it correctly Sauer, Mauser & Blaser are part of the same group with Sauer making all the barrels
 
Interesting responses, thank you.

To answer some the questions.

Yes, the barrel was clean. I hadn't intended to take the .308 bug after struggling the get a scope set up on the .300 took it as a last resort. I hadn't even fired a fouling shot. Cleaning wise I use bore tech eliminator and follow the instruction pushing patches through until they come out clean. I'm not shooting every week so rifles are cleaned after each outing. Due to it raining all day I went to clean it and oil it when I got in the car before traveling home.

When end stalking I always look to carry the rifle muzzle down over my left shoulder. I'm right handed. The rifle is fitted with a Hardy Gen 5 so I'm am not able to tape the end to the best of my knowledge.

Bullets where chambered on leaving the estate vehicle/starting the stalk and the chamber cleared when returning to the vehicle/end of the stalk.

Hornady SST SF where removed from the box and placed in the mag. As far as I am aware they were as clean as in the factory.

On on returning home I pushed through patches soaked in bore tech which clearly showed rust. I then had to use a bronze brush to shift it as nylon wouldn't touch it.

I would imagine on a on a day as wet as it was moisture in some form would have entered the barrel if only in vapour form but this occurred only over the third of the barrel closest to the chamber.


Shootgun, where you using a Blaser moderator at the time the rust occurred?

Thanks again for the input so far.
 
Yep, in my Sauer as well. I always leave a very thin coat of oil. If you shoot it will blow it out. After being out everything gets wiped down and re oiled.
 
My question about anything on the end of the bullet was to try and establish whether the crystals were formed from something which got into the barrel during the day out...in which case it would have presumably got onto the end of the bullet as well.

If the rifle was carried muzzle down and the crystals were formed at the breech end of the bore it would appear it was either already in there prior to the outing...or somehow the moisture got past the bolt and cartridge, which seems unlikely.

Can you leave Bore Tech Eliminator in the barrel after cleaning as a corrosion inhibitor?...you can with the Wipe-Out products...or do Bore Tech specify a wipe through with oil after cleaning?

I did have a bloom of rust in the chamber once which came out with a bronze chamber brush in the drill and CLP. I concluded that was because I had put it away squeaky clean, and it was after a few weeks of not being out and a few of those temperature inversions which cause condensation to form on everything.

The last couple of months I have been pulling a boresnake through with a few drops of CLP on the back end of it before I put it away as it is so damp.

As an aside, I always carry mine muzzle down on my left shoulder...I shoot right handed...but I always put a bit of insulating tape across the moderator face. What is the reason you cannot put tape on the Hardy Gen 5?

Alan
 
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I've hunted in the rain, and camped next to running creeks. Within one evening I've got rust in the bore. I used to clean the oil out of my rifle before shooting. Now I leave something like frog oil or innox with a very light coating. Ie a drop or two then up and down the bore and chamber with a patch. It hasn't affected accuracy. Then I have the muzzle taped up and the action closed, only cock when I'm ready to fire. If I fire during the day, back at camp I will use a pull through and again run some oil through it. I think as the temperature plumments and high humidity you will get water drops forming in the barrel and yes blaser and sauer barrels will rust. I was pretty annoyed the first time it happened and used the brass brush with a cleaner for an hour. In the end I just started shooting them. The rust disappeared but some etch marks left on the inside of the barrel (checked with borescope). After a few more range sessions they were gone. So I learnt my lesson. Keep the muzzle taped, always leave a thin layer of oil in the cold barrel. Always wipe down rifle after session and re oil and never, ever leave a wet gun over night in your case or the safe. The rust should stay away.
 
Hello again, and thank you.

Alan, I hope my response did not come across as short. It was getting late for me and composed on my phone which is never ideal. Your input is valued.

If I'm honest (always the best policy) I have only ever tried to tape directly across the face of the moderator with insulation tape, this of course falls off in not time. When taping the end of a barrel I put a band of tap on, then a piece over the bore that stick to the previous band, then another band to seal. Can this approach be applied to a moderator? I am still caucuses about place items over the end of bores.

Bore tech instruction do state that the product can and should be left in the bore as a rust preventative so I cant see this being an issue, it was a thought that crossed my mind. In this instance the bore was dry and clean to the best of my knowledge. My cabinet is in the centre of the house so tends to maintain a good temperature. I haven't seen signs of rust on any other guns in it since I've had the cabinet there (about 15+ years) so I tend to store the rifles dry and ready to go unless I know there really wont be coming out for weeks.

As far as I am aware and to the very best of my knowledge there was nothing on the bullet heads, although again I understand your thought trail.

Shootgun, thank you.

I ask as I have been told that the rust may well have occurred due to the moderator being present. I struggle to understand this as the rust has occurred nearest the chamber.

Having spoken to Blaser, and others all Mauser, Blaser and Sauer barrels are made in the same factory. I may stand corrected but...

All, I really appreciate your input as the rust has resulted in pitting, the barrel has only seen about 250 rounds and I paid the extra for fluting, all in a rather expensive barrel. I feel I keep my rifles in good order, and shops have confirmed as much so for this to have occurred is some what annoying and leaves my wondering if it will occur again shortening the life of the barrel and its accuracy.

Any further input appreciated.

Kind regards
 
Mine shoots fine. Don't worry about the rust and use some electrical tape of the end of the moderator. It will just shoot a hole through it. I've heard of moderators causing rust before on blasers. Might be worth removing after the hunt.
 
I always remove the moderator before putting it away to keep any corrosive elements out of the barrel...I have read of people storing the gun muzzle down, but capillary attraction and creep could still allow transfer into the barrel.

I am still worrying through the description of the rapid formation of rust crystals in the least accessible part of the bore.

I mentally picture rust as a slow burning of the surface...the combination of iron and oxygen....but it can be accelerated or inhibited by the presence of other metals and chemicals. Water or moisture has to be present and the classic accelerator would be salt as in sea water.

If zinc or aluminium is present it acts sacrificially and can prevent corrosion of the iron...What material is the Hardy moderator made from?

It is the crystal formation rather than rust stain form which may give the clue.

If Blaser were happy to replace the barrel for shootgun, one wonders if there was a batch of barrels with excess sulphur inclusions or similar which caused excessive surface deterioration. Might well be worth contacting your Blaser dealer with the serial number of the barrel and describe the circumstances to them.


Alan
 
I to always remove the moderator, actually I only tend to fit the moderator before a stalk, removing it before I pop it back in the slip at the end of the day/stalk. There is the odd occasion where I have to get out on the side of a highway and don't wish to be mucking around on the side of the road so will fit it at home but these occasions are rare.

Alan, it worries me to. I know the bore was clear at the start of the stalk but there was certainly crystal like formations at the chamber end of the bore by the time I had finished the day. I wish I had taken photos at the time but I was so keen to get it out that I just got on with lubeing the barrel. On returning home it had reappeared so as stated the bronze brush was adopted. The gun was then stored dry in anticipation of a stalk later in the week, when I got it out 4 days later it had again reappeared but worse. As stated the cabinet is in a dry area of the house and the moderator had been off for a while. Of course, when Blaser took the barrel it did not occur and hasn't occurred since. Always the way haha.

I was aware of reactions between metals as I once owned a series land rover so did look into this at the time. The Hardy Mod is Aluminium it weighs around 290grams so there is potential but surly this would cause it to occur near the muzzle not the chamber, as stated, a little confusing.

I am afraid the reason for me starting this post was due to the fact that Blaser currently state that its not the barrel and could be one of a number of other things as we have discussed. I really wanted to find out if others had suffered, or if I could see some kind of reasoning behind it. I believe there may be a defect in the bore. If it came down to the environment I would have thought others stalking more regularly in the area would have suffered worse but most haven't heard of this let alone seen it.

I will be back in contact with Blaser shortly and we will see how we go. I really love the rifle so don't wish to get ride.

Still open to ideas or just general input from other that have experienced this. Blaser or not.

Thanks in advance.
 
Worrying as in a dog worrying sheep...keep at it until you solve the problem... :) But either meaning works.

Have you looked at the bore with a borescope immediately after cleaning? Is there any trace of surface corrosion?

If no surface marking...then the crystals may have precipitated from something getting into the barrel rather than the barrel surface itself oxidising.

If there is surface change then it does not tell you really whether it was something that got into the bore or the actual bore reacting to something that got in...if you follow my drift.

Could you wet a piece of bright steel (carbon knife blade, hand saw blade?) with the same cleaning product and leave that out in the atmosphere to see if it forms similar crystals?

Alan

p.s. Have just reread your earlier post and noted that you mentioned that you do have some pitting of the bore surface.
 
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Looks nasty. Yet another sign of poor manufacturing and even poorer steel.
We now have more wonder cleaners than ever. All with the promise of anti rust ect.
BALLS...... Back to basics cleaning needed with good old oil. All this tosh of the moderator made the rust,is being banded about by manufacturers all to often.
And the whole time we spend more of our hard earned money on fancy rifles expecting more than worrying about rust.:(
 
On a cold wet day, a cold barrel will attract condensation. This will cause rust, unless the steel is protected. Even stainless will rust. On the outside of the barrels use something like rangoon oil which is not easily removed by contact. Even a fine gunwax is also useful. In the bore, just a drop or two of light oil before putting it away, and then just run a dry patch before going out, but if wet I would leave it. Yes the bullet may shoot slightly differently, but if you are in reasonable range it shouldn't make much difference provided you zero with a clean barrel which I do.

When returning home, or ahead of a long drive the rifle gets a wipe down to remove moisture etc, and also well worth running a patch down the bore to clear out any powder fouling and moisture.

And have a dry case to carry the rifle or gun home in.
 
Is it possible that there is Granite stone in your shooting area, if its wet it will cause rust on steel.
 
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