Unusual Blaser Bore Corrosion

It's the evil that all Blasers are made of coming out :twisted:

Just looks like poor steel to me in all honesty.

I had the same with a Sako TRG... ended up lopping 2" off the barrel... It's not poor quality steel... it's just steel + Air + moisture and them unfortunately conspiring against the OP.. It could happen to any of us given the right combination of environment & events!

Blimey, some people will take any opportunity to do a bit of Blaser bashing... but let's look at this another way... when this happened to my TRG, GMK didn't want to know, it was only a few months old and had been treated like a baby... I was told 'it's steel, it rusts, nothing to do with us, get over it and go away!' in fact, and I quote, the tech I spoke to said 'how do we know you haven't had it stood in a bucket of salt water!?' !!!!!!!!!

Then look at Blaser's reaction to a similar situation... barrel replaced without question... The service is incredible and they will bend over backwards to sort pretty much any problem out (even when the problem is user error!) How many other rifle manufacturers/importers can you site that offer a similar level of 'no questions' service!?!?
 
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Who said the fault is user error. Blaser will do the right thing because there is a fault. no bashing involved.
I can not see them doing a recall as the cost and loss of name would hurt badly.
There has to be some fault in the manufacture process. Why else would so many be rusting.
 
Who said the fault is user error. Blaser will do the right thing because there is a fault. no bashing involved.
I can not see them doing a recall as the cost and loss of name would hurt badly.
There has to be some fault in the manufacture process. Why else would so many be rusting.

But surely not doing a recall would be even more costly, e.g. threads like this casting doubt on their quality control?
 
Who said the fault is user error. Blaser will do the right thing because there is a fault. no bashing involved.
I can not see them doing a recall as the cost and loss of name would hurt badly.
There has to be some fault in the manufacture process. Why else would so many be rusting.

No one said it was user error.. I was referring to an incident I had with my second R8 which I purchased 2nd hand, I then bought a success stock 2nd hand and it wouldn't group at all.. turned out the fore end had had a little DIY work done on it to accept a match barrel! I contacted Blaser and explained the issue and they were happy to uplift it at their expense to sort it at the factory! In the end I took it back to the dealer but what service... name me another manufacturer or importer who would do that.

Blaser's value is in it's reputation for reliability, precision, accuracy etc and they are willing to do whatever is necessary to ensure that reputation is not tarnished and that the end user's experience is nothing short of excellence. It's a bit like a Rolls Royce... do they break down? of course they do but have you ever seen one sat on the hard shoulder with it's hazards on? probably not... the company pulls out all the stops in case of a breakdown so that the exposure to others is minimised and not noticed!

Fault in manufacture????? get a grip... it's a lump of mild steel with the important bit untreated and exposed to the elements. Rust in the barrel is one of, if not the most common problem with all rifle barrels...

And 'so many' blasers??? how many are you aware of?.. I have now come across 2... both in this thread?!?
 
Fault in manufacture????? get a grip... it's a lump of mild steel with the important bit untreated and exposed to the elements. Rust in the barrel is one of, if not the most common problem with all rifle barrels... Get a grip? in what way is it not treated? every time you oil a barrel that is treating it. the bluing process is treating it. Bare steel will be impregnated with oil every time you oil it. so if you are running around with the important bit untreated then expect rust. Oh and there are quite a few Blaser's around here. Thanks
 
Fault in manufacture????? get a grip... it's a lump of mild steel with the important bit untreated and exposed to the elements. Rust in the barrel is one of, if not the most common problem with all rifle barrels... Get a grip? in what way is it not treated? every time you oil a barrel that is treating it. the bluing process is treating it. Bare steel will be impregnated with oil every time you oil it. so if you are running around with the important bit untreated then expect rust. Oh and there are quite a few Blaser's around here. Thanks

A lot of gun owners strip the bore back to bare metal for fear of bulging a barrel.. even just running a clean patch through before an outing will remove enough oil to create a risk of surface corrosion in the right (wrong) conditions.. and one round sent on it's way will remove what is left in very short order!

Not treated as in not blued/parkerised/cerakoted etc... the only protection from the elements is what ever the user applies before/during/after an outing..

Plenty of blasers what? with rusty barrels? I've had 3 and never had a problem with rust..
 
As the tread is about Blaser then that is what one would be talking about. I my self have only had one issue with rust, and that was an environmental issue with my CZ when down in Cornwall.
The salt air took offence to my rifle and produced small spots all over. A good oil soon sorted it out and no more problems had. at home i use stainless.
I have never questioned or slated Blaser build quality. only the manufacturing process of steel used in the barrels.
most steel now is of poor quality. look around at most applications and it is clear to see steel is not as good as once was, due to market forces.
I am aware of four Blasers with rust and am also aware of other manufactures with rust issues... may be some thing to do with the steel used?
as for there are a few blasers around here. Its just that. there are a few about here, due to location in relation to plenty of deer and popularity of them being used by pro's.
ATB
 
Going a little off track here, but beware, stainless rifles also rust.

Back on track, i have a Blaser, lucky for me i have had no issues with rust.

Cheers

Richard
 
Thanks aye i know stainless rusts. But i find it has the edge over bluing in our weather.
As plastic stocks have the edge over wood in poor weather.
If you had said 10 years ago i would be using a plastic stock i would have laughed.
Each to there own.
ATB Tommy
 
Snip...
most steel now is of poor quality. look around at most applications and it is clear to see steel is not as good as once was, due to market forces. Snip....
ATB


We are back to post 31 and 33 here. Most steel now is not of poor quality...all unprotected steel will rust...it is one of its properties.

Alan
 
One day hunting in Sweden in the rain saw my Husqvarna rust and green corrosion on the normal factory ammo.
 
I also stalk in South Scotland and had a similar experience with my Mauser M03. After a stalk on a clammy day, I did the usual run through with the copper brush, cleaner patches then and oily patch. On my following stalk a month later I found some white crystals in my chamber end. I stored the rifle muzzle skyward in my cabinet, with the moderator on. I think this was the cause of the crystals. Unfortunately there was some pitting on the tip Lesson learned; remove the moderator, as the plates etc within attract all kinds of deposits and moisture.
 
Cleaning wise I use bore tech eliminator and follow the instruction pushing patches through until they come out clean. I'm not shooting every week so rifles are cleaned after each outing. Due to it raining all day I went to clean it and oil it when I got in the car before traveling home.

When end stalking I always look to carry the rifle muzzle down over my left shoulder. I'm right handed. The rifle is fitted with a Hardy Gen 5 so I'm am not able to tape the end to the best of my knowledge.

Bullets where chambered on leaving the estate vehicle/starting the stalk and the chamber cleared when returning to the vehicle/end of the stalk.

Just a thought, but bore tech eliminator is one of the modern eco friendly water based cleaners that are all AFAIK based on stuff developed for the military who use this by the oildrum quantity. And environmental considerations are important.

It is not a rust (or other corrosion) preventative.

The best they have to say about it it is:


"6) Before storing firearm, dampen a patch with Eliminator and push through bore. This will protect against rust/corrosion for up to 2 weeks under normal storage conditions.

7) For extended storage or in adverse conditions apply Bore Tech Friction Guard XP Gun Oil.
"

So it might be that you went out with your barrel completely devoid of any corrosion protection. Or worse if it was left with whatever chemicals Bore Tech contains. I mean, they do say that "under normal storage conditions" it might be ok for "up to two weeks"

Personally I use traditional cleaners (Butches Bore Shine), followed by oiling. Patched through before shooting with meths to take out the oil. Then re-oiled, or cleaned/oiled upon return.

I have two boresnakes for field maintenance, one is an oily one, the other kept clean and dry for cleaning out the oil. I don't feel a need to clean with solvents every time in stalking use. Perhaps every 100 rounds.

I'd recommend re-thinking your cleaning and storage regime and, in particular using good old oil for barrel protection. Personally I am distrustful of the eco water based things and see no reason to change my methods, nor neglect basic precautions such as using a good oil.
 
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Bare steel will be impregnated with oil every time you oil it.
Steel can not absorb oil it only becomes a surface barrier for a limited time but regular oiling will help corrosion on bare steel surfaces , I have a stainless barrel on my Sako 85 and after 15yrs years have never had any issue's , maybe Blaser should look into St/St if they don't already.
 
Just had a look, and according to the MSDS at https://www.shootingequipment.de/out/media/eliminator_bore_cleaner_security_data.pdf

The primary ingredients of Boretech Eliminator are up to 25% 2-Aminoethylphosphonic Acid and up to 5% anionic surfactants, Together with some secret sauce stuff which elsewhere are suggested to be some glycols to slow down evaporation, a limonene type substance, and another chelating agent. The rest water. All eco. and can be flushed down the drain.

Boretech themselves don't make any great claims for it as a copper or lead remover, nor for carbon, they have other products for that, just an all round everyday thing.

Whereas the old fashioned stinky ammonia stuff dissolved in hydrocarbon bases, developed over many many years, most definitely do dissolve and soften these things, but are quite toxic to e.g. aquatic life, humans etc.

I think that things like nitro benzene (which smelled nice but is certainly bad for you) have been taken out of them for good reasons, possibly reducing their effectiveness on carbon etc. somewhat. For the tiny quantities that I use I'm not to concerned about my environmental impact, but for those who use them on an industrial scale and nowadays have to dispose of them correctly, it is a serious consideration, hence the development of these alternative methods, which have rippled down to the likes of us.

I have an open mind to new things and am quite prepared to try once my big bottle of old stuff runs out. But meanwhile, if it's not broken I see no reason to fix it with the latest new thing.
 
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