Action out of stock while cleaning?

[mChavez]

Hi All,

Took my tikka out of its stock for the first time in about 5-6 years.
Shock #1: Trigger assembly was loose - the bolt securing the trigger to the action started coming out.
Shock #2: A fair amount of rust underneath the action.
Shock #3: Looks like the insides of the trigger have a bit of rust as well.

My approach to cleaning has always been to clean the bore, chamber, bolt and top of the action asap after coming home and dry the rifle in front of the radiator before putting it back into the safe. I wouldn't take the action out, as I believe that might affect the zero.
I'd never take the trigger off or do anything to it, thinking that it's the last part of the rifle I want to monkey with.

Should I have been lifting the action out of the stock regularly to give it a clean? Any advice appreciated.

1) Shall I lock-tite the bolt that secures trigger to the action? It never felt wobbly, so no idea how long it's been loose.
2) Cleaned most of the rust off with CLP and some steel wool. Any suggestions for preventing further rust? Spray it with legia while the trigger's off?
3) Do I need to strip and clean the trigger unit? Is this something that needs to be done regularly?

For all I know, a lot of people don't even bother to clean the bore, never mind do any of the above, but I am surprised at the amount of carp that came out.

 

[paul o']

I strip mine once a year after winter, I use Carb cleaner to blast any all the working parts clean, I never strip out the trigger unless its faulty , then re-molly the trigger group and bolt rebuild it and thats it the bolts are locked down to spec thats then sorted , day to day running I just use a light spray with a light oil like Legia , as it protects and wards away and water . I don't use any lock tight on the working parts only very little on the Browning A bolt mounts , all the others I don't only as there made better . clean as norm . wooded stocks I used to wax in the channel to repel any water.

 

[Edinburgh Rifles]

Always pull the action
It’s the bits you can’t see that rust

 

[mChavez]

Does the zero not get affected from pulling the action? (assuming torque wrench used to tighten the bolts)

 

[VSS]

Does the zero not get affected from pulling the action? (assuming torque wrench used to tighten the bolts)

Doesn't affect zero on my rifles, but I always check just to make sure.
(And I don't use a torque wrench).

 

[palo]

I would strip the rifle down at least twice a year and always after being out in the rain.
I will give it a good clean and check screws etc and then coat the metal with eezox oil before putting the stock back on.
I do use a torque wrench and it doesn't seem to affect zero.

 

[mChavez]

Thanks.

Am I right to think - no oil allowed anywhere near the trigger assembly?

Do you strip the bolts regulrarly? Never done mine, but I do de-cock them for storage.

 

[ejg]

Those who always propagate to not oil a rifle should start by draining the oil on their car to see how metal on metal runs without oil. Bit like those that always say don't fix it if it isn't broke. This rifle is a good example to see that maintenance is vital from the first day onwards. Of course one can try and blame the manufacturer if a shot goes out unwanted due to loose trigger but then it is a bit late to stop the bullet. We have to take some responsibility. Several on this forum myself included have mentioned that the screw holding the trigger on rifles such as Sako/Tikka/Howa etc can come loose. It should actually be fitted with Loctite and checked when servicing the rifle. Of course one can and should oil a trigger, of course one can and should oil the lugs, moving surfaces, firing pin assembly on a rifle. That is why they invented gun oil. If a rifle gets a bit of sand I prefer sand and oil over only sand. Just clean if the rifle falls into the sand just as drying re-oiling after getting wet.
If one does not want to service a rifle, just get a pro to do it.
I always oil my actions before fitting back into the stock. Checking zero every now and then is not bad anyway as one gets a bit of practice After servicing a rifle just fire a few shots.
edi

 

[mChavez]

start by draining the oil on their car to see how metal on metal runs without oil

Landies seem to run just fine

On a serious note, thank you very much for the information.
What oil would you use? Is there any sense in spraying parts with a teflon lube (e.g. GT85?) and letting dry?

Will locktite the trigger going forward. Still surprised that I never felt any play in it before de-stocking.

Checking zero now and again is a must, indeed.

 

[ejg]

The difference between no oil and any oil at all is much bigger than oil to oil. I used a Teflon grease on lugs and cam in the bolt that have high pressure. A thinner Teflon oil on raceways bolt and trigger. (Interflon)
I recently saw a demonstration of lube failure from the Dutch Ditoil company Home - Ditoil UK and was very impressed. Although expensive I bought grease, spray can and the additive. (I also have a Land Rover)
They also have a little oil bottle with a needle applicator which would be ideal. The spray can is great for flushing the firing pin and grease for lugs. Only used Ditoil since a few weeks.

I am a great believer of additives, recently put an additive into a range rover gearbox, that jeep hardly got up a hill due to gearbox shudder now perfect again.
edi

 

[1894]

Old fashioned way. Clean rifle out of stock. Get a tub of cheap automotive grease and large artists paintbrush. Coat underside of barrel and action plus mag box (outside!) and bottom metal with grease avoiding trigger.

Put rifle back in stock and clean xs. Thereafter merely clean visible metalwork.

People will throw up their hands in horror but it was good enough for Trevor Proctor and its worked for me for 25years.

 

[deeangeo]

Usual torque settings for action to stock is around 7- 8ft lbs.
However if you email Tikka, they will very likely mail you fairly promptly with their actual settings.
Both Blaser & Steyr Supplied the info very quickly when I asked.

 

[Ronin]

Always remove the action from the stock at least on an annual basis and give the action, stock inlet and trigger and good deep clean

Retighten any loose fittings

Remove trigger and blast out with suitable cleaner and re lube with appropriate liquid (I use lighter fluid on triggers)

Strip and clean bolt and firing pin

Check all optics fittjngs

Re assemble and clean barrel, action lugs etc

 

[paul o']

.




QUOTE="mChavez, post: 1745516, member: 9488"]
Landies seem to run just fine

On a serious note, thank you very much for the information.
What oil would you use? Is there any sense in spraying parts with a teflon lube (e.g. GT85?) and letting dry?

Will locktite the trigger going forward. Still surprised that I never felt any play in it before de-stocking.



Checking zero now and again is a must, indeed.
[/QUOTE]

 

[jb1]

I strip mine when i feel the urge, probably twice a year, blast the trigger with an electro cleaner, bronze brush raceways and spray with a teflon lube. Give the action a quick blast with Napier cleaner (cus i love the smell) put it back in the action torque up job done.
Its had a lovely bedding job done and just doesn't shift zero.

 

[Selous]

When I have removed action from stock I apply a light coat of spray waxoyl then remove most with a cloth before refitting the stock. Trigger gets light oil, raceways, bolt lugs and sear and muzzle threads moly grease.

 

[HandB]

I shot my BSA 7x57 at Bisley in mild rain for a couple of hours. I gave it a quick clean when I got home and put it away. But then a couple of days later I took it out of the stock and found pools of water between the wood and metal. Luckily I caught it just in time and there was no rust but from now on I will always take rifles out of the stock when I have shot in the rain.

 

[Nkawu]

Rifle grease for me on the hidden metal parts.

 

[NP435]

RIG (rust inhibiting grease) on on surfaces hidden by the stock, or CorrosionX great for places such as firing pins ect. Not a bad idea to remove the stock more often in damp conditions for inspection. My climate tends to be very dry.

 

[regi]

Well, I post some days ago on 2 other fora my personnal experience which is a bit similar: RUST!
(more rifles means less handling and control one by one, the lockdown , restricted range time and very high temperatures with a 100% humidity in August)
2 barrels had some spots on the blueing, under the front stock !, trigger guards, triggers, the grooves in bolts and screws, the dovetail goove. Real rusty are wood screws of butt pads and trigger guards.
I do always wipe a rifle with a cotton cloth with Ballistol. In case I have no time to clean it thoroughly back home. The rust appeared only on the rifles which have such a Ballistol cloth in the side pocket of their designated bag.
All the rest is whiped with Parker Hale Youngs 303.
Test:
-fresh cotton patch with Ballistol, whiping over the barrels: no colouring.
-New patch with Remington gun oil on same barrels: rusty colour!
-New patch with Remington gun oil over parts that were whiped with Parker Hale Youngs 303 other barrels: no rusty colouring.

Trigger group dirt:
that is tricky. I had to remove LOADS of waxy dried up grease/ brown stuff out of a Ruger N°1 action. Disassembly of the action is pretty simple. But I didn't want to remove the butt stock ( to give acces to the trigger group) The action is now nice and shiny and very light. But at the trigger I still feel some "stuff". So one day or the other , I will have to go through that stage as well.
I did have a lot of dirt in the CZ452 trigger group. I dismantled the entire group. Cleaned it with environmentally unacceptable quantities of break cleaner + ultra sonic cleaner. Spray with Teflon stuff and a tiny bit of bearing grease on the small bearing balls. And discovered that it is "mission impossible" to reassemble the sear bridge if you have removed the front pin. I finally succeeded at 3PM, but it is something I will not do again.

Lesson learned:
Rust is there , especially where you don't see it.
Rust can be prevented with the right stuff.