Blackpowder corrosion, how bad is it?

Smellydog

Well-Known Member
I've come to realise I don't need to panic if I don't clean my muzzloaders immediately after shooting. Sometimes I leave it for weeks.
I remembered today that my 10g (big Ted), had not been cleaned for weeks but coated in my patch lube.

So I got big Ted out for inspection.
Not to bad, the breech was smothered in patch lube and in good condition.
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The barrels were good but the muzzles had some rust.
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I didn't panic, I just went shooting.
Responding to information about some geese coming to a marl pit in the early light I loaded about 1&1/2oz of tm shot #3 and about 90gns of fine black powder.
I was expecting the card wads to be aweful to load down them crusty barrels but no, they glided down. Probably due to the lube I use during shooting from last time.
The geese did indeed drop in but I could not shoot them coming in so had to show myself once they landed and hope they circle a certain way to give me a shot so I can retrieve from without getting wet!
Sure enough they lifted and circled to avoid some trees and passed over me at a whopping 20yds.
The fine black powder burned fast. A satisfying recoil, boom and smoke obscured the bird as it crumpled and landed not 10yds from my feet.
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I'd only been out for a little more than half an hour from first light and was done but I still had one barrel loaded!
I could hear some pheasant not far away so walked bold as brass into some thick cover untill one broke cover. Swinging left Ted let fly and a pheasant was added to the already heavy bag!
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When I got home it was time to clean Ted up properly.
That meant hot water pumping. Boiled water rinsing and a good drying.
Once cooled a little, a little polishing the rust affected area and applied my patch lube and all was good again ready for next time.
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Pedersoli shotguns are chrome plated but it is very thin and whilst slows some corrosion it's not a guarantee to prevent rusting but as you can see, I don't panic, there is no need.
Use a good animal/veg fat based lube and it will really help slow any reaction down.
I propped big Ted the 10 gauge up in the corner and smiled like a Cheshire cat.
 
Have found a good squirt of Bronx and patching out is a useful ploy if cleaning is to be delayed. Still hard to beat religiously following a disciplined cleaning routine.
 
Blackpowder, yes, with MODERN percussion caps you'll get away with it. But with Pyrodex and any age percussion cap you'll be crying. Pyrodex attracts water and is a vector for corrosion. Blackpowder is less unkind!
 
Blackpowder, yes, with MODERN percussion caps you'll get away with it. But with Pyrodex and any age percussion cap you'll be crying. Pyrodex attracts water and is a vector for corrosion. Blackpowder is less unkind!
Yes and black powder fouling is also hygroscopic..
Pyrodex does develope more perchlorates than blackpowder thus is keen.
When I used pyrodex I found I still got good protection when I used an animal/vegetable lubricant.
 
Actually, spell it brunox. Its a spray gun oil/cleaner
If it's mineral oil I won't be using it.

I've seen to many muzzleloaders ruined by using mineral oil products. And wd40.

The black powder fouling turns to a tar like substance and the over time it separates and seams to concentrate the salts somehow.

Animal/vegetable based oils and fats absorb salts readily and hold it perfectly.
Boiled water lifts the lot and dissolves the salts . The heat drys it out quickly. Easy and simple 😊
 
Linseed oil, is made from linseed which is flax / hemp. A vegetable based oil, widely used on guns. When guns were rust blued, or browned linseed oil would liberally applied after the final carding proccess with barrels nicely warm, and it soaks into the pores and once it dries it provides a protective skin.

Renaissance wax polish is a mix of beeswax, linseed oil and real turpentine which is from the gum of pine trees.
 
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