Cleaning Kit
- Thread starter SSN100
- Start date
So easier to pick and choose the bits and then find a suitable box rather than get a “kit”. Thanks.
RescueMe0007
Well-Known Member
Add an old toothbrush for getting any gunk out the action.
A glass case to hold all the cleaning rods in, along with a kit for cleaning the cleaning rods.
OR,
12 ga bore snake.
A 30 cal bore snake on the rare occasion you might need to pull the 308.
22 Bore snake that you should avoid using unless you get dust or dirt in the bore. Never clean the bore on a RF.
Clean the action to perfection but leave the bores of the rifles alone. JMHO ~Muir
OR,
12 ga bore snake.
A 30 cal bore snake on the rare occasion you might need to pull the 308.
22 Bore snake that you should avoid using unless you get dust or dirt in the bore. Never clean the bore on a RF.
Clean the action to perfection but leave the bores of the rifles alone. JMHO ~Muir
RescueMe0007
Well-Known Member
Muir,
Please advise why you're so strong on not cleaning the bore of a RF? Having been in the services I was trained to keep the bore of a weapon clean at all times outside of using it. I'm interested as to your logic in not cleaning.
It depends on your definition of cleaning. Anschutz one time instructed owners of their match rifles to push a single patch with a scant drop of oil down the barrel, then follow with patches til dry. This the only cleaning I advocate and the only cleaning I will do should I get foreign matter (dirt) in the barrel. Otherwise I will leave them be. A 22LR that has the bore solvent cleaned will be a PIA to get back on target again. My T1X has never been cleaned (bore) and I was shooting sub quarter inch groups at 50M last Sunday. With it's ammo of choice I can tell you exactly where it will hit, first round out of the gate.
I got my first 22LR when I was 6 hours old. Pulled the trigger the first time when (I'm told) I was 2 years old. Hunted alone with it when I was seven years old. I have been evaluating RF ammo accuracy and performance since 1980 and have worked R&D field testing ammo for a large ammo company. I even designed a RF round for myself and had it made.
I was never in the military. ~Muir
I got my first 22LR when I was 6 hours old. Pulled the trigger the first time when (I'm told) I was 2 years old. Hunted alone with it when I was seven years old. I have been evaluating RF ammo accuracy and performance since 1980 and have worked R&D field testing ammo for a large ammo company. I even designed a RF round for myself and had it made.
I was never in the military. ~Muir
It sounds like your brand new certificates are the same as mine. Also in the market for a 308, a 22lr at some point in the future and a shotgun. With all the stuff that goes with it.
What happens? ~MuirMyths of former times.
A centrefire is something completely different than a RF. Clean the CF or you will regret it.
You will need one or two quality rods with appropriately sized jag and nylon brushes, a bore guide and a good solvent together with correctly sized cotton patches.
I would recommend you select rods, jags and brushes that don’t have brass fittings. I’ve spent years and gallons of solvent dissolving the brass on my rods and jags. I now use the Copper Eliminator rods manufactured by Dewey. Reloading Solutions normally have them in stock. A Possum Hollow bore guide to fit your rifle is also much better than the adjustable one size fits all types.
Tim
I would recommend you select rods, jags and brushes that don’t have brass fittings. I’ve spent years and gallons of solvent dissolving the brass on my rods and jags. I now use the Copper Eliminator rods manufactured by Dewey. Reloading Solutions normally have them in stock. A Possum Hollow bore guide to fit your rifle is also much better than the adjustable one size fits all types.
Tim
Another vote for possum hollow bore guides - the best on the market.
Don’t forget a pack of tampons to clean cf chamber. Applicator versions are excellent
A carbon cleaner and a copper cleaner of your choice (much debate on those but most work). Meths to degrease and clean the chemicals. Legia spray to finish the cf and the only cleaner you need for the shottie (with kitchen roll as mentioned above).
Just cleaned 3 tonight, feeling very virtuous now
Don’t forget a pack of tampons to clean cf chamber. Applicator versions are excellent
A carbon cleaner and a copper cleaner of your choice (much debate on those but most work). Meths to degrease and clean the chemicals. Legia spray to finish the cf and the only cleaner you need for the shottie (with kitchen roll as mentioned above).
Just cleaned 3 tonight, feeling very virtuous now
Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
22lr rifles don't really need cleaning, there's not enough pressure or velocity in them to effect the barrel. It's just a soft lead bullet. Some of the old bsa target rifles from the 50s have never been cleaned!
Reloading solutions or Norman Clark would be a good place to start for CF cleaning stuff. Also need no trace nylon brush and jags. I use an aluminium 2 part rod for my shot guns. PB brush, jag for 4x2 patch and a wool mop.
Rarely clean. 22lr and if so bore snake. However if you shoot an Annie with a recessed muzzle be aware of crud build up which can effect accuracy.
D
Rarely clean. 22lr and if so bore snake. However if you shoot an Annie with a recessed muzzle be aware of crud build up which can effect accuracy.
D
Stalker-of-the-deer
Well-Known Member
Rifle wise - cleaning rod dependant on cal,
Jag and brush. (I like the bore tech stuff) and patches (pro shot or 4x2 cut your own or is use felt wads) and a bore guide
Good chemicals - again I use boretech, it's actually works and doesn't stink.
Pull through, use after every outing and only deep clean when groups open up
Shotgun wise - rods long enough to for through the barrel, phosphor bronze brush, oil and some newspaper. Bore solvent and oil
Pull though after an outing and clean properly when it's noticeably dirty.
I also keep an old tooth brush for scrubbing hard to reach areas with solvent and some 0000 wire wool to rove any staining/rust/hard carbon and it won't scratch the gun up.
Jag and brush. (I like the bore tech stuff) and patches (pro shot or 4x2 cut your own or is use felt wads) and a bore guide
Good chemicals - again I use boretech, it's actually works and doesn't stink.
Pull through, use after every outing and only deep clean when groups open up
Shotgun wise - rods long enough to for through the barrel, phosphor bronze brush, oil and some newspaper. Bore solvent and oil
Pull though after an outing and clean properly when it's noticeably dirty.
I also keep an old tooth brush for scrubbing hard to reach areas with solvent and some 0000 wire wool to rove any staining/rust/hard carbon and it won't scratch the gun up.
Barrel cleaning is another topic thar devides opinion , particularly the use of a bore guide and nylon brushes .
My gear ,
"O"ring bore guide - to stop the crud running back into your action and because its easier.
Quality rod - Boretech
Jags - Spear point Proof positive
Brush - Proof Positive or similar
Boretech patches
Boretech Eliminater - use as per instructions .
When the barrel is soaking I pop a soaked patch on the crown and use a 410 mop to mop the chamber when I finish.
My gear ,
"O"ring bore guide - to stop the crud running back into your action and because its easier.
Quality rod - Boretech
Jags - Spear point Proof positive
Brush - Proof Positive or similar
Boretech patches
Boretech Eliminater - use as per instructions .
When the barrel is soaking I pop a soaked patch on the crown and use a 410 mop to mop the chamber when I finish.
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