Got one of these as a Christmas present to myself (.308 in wood) and although I have only had the time to zero it so far, I really like it.
Going to take a while to get used to the extra kick over the moderated .223 I usually shoot though!
Lightweight stalking rifle
- Thread starter Craigmcwill
- Start date
Got one of these as a Christmas present to myself (.308 in wood) and although I have only had the time to zero it so far, I really like it.
Going to take a while to get used to the extra kick over the moderated .223 I usually shoot though!
I’m Ron Swanson
Member
This conversation has made me put this rifle on the scales:
3.52kg bolt in with no magazine or moderator fitted. So that’s a 20” Tikka T3 .308 on a PSE E-Lite stock and a S&B 8x56 Klassik.
Hope that helps
ShootyBang
Well-Known Member
I'm about to plump for a Bergara BA-13 single shot, the 16.5" barrel in .308. Should be very compact, if perhaps a bit kicky.
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
I've got the 20" barrel version in 308 and it's fine to shoot without a moderator as it's not particularly light so recoil is fine. Even shooting prone to zero was ok and produced fairly decent groups.I'm about to plump for a Bergara BA-13 single shot, the 16.5" barrel in .308. Should be very compact, if perhaps a bit kicky.
I have bought a moderator for it just to save the hassle of hearing protection while stalking which should make it even nicer to shoot. Although it's not overly light it is really handy and easy to use and carry because it's so short.
ShootyBang
Well-Known Member
Yeah it ain't a Merkel K5, weight-wise. Trade offs... it'll cost you an additional £4k to shave off that excess kilo
Depends if you rely on distance shooting at all.
Heavier rifles reduce recoil and are far more accurate at longer distance but not great for 15 mile back slaps, although I don’t mind my 6.5 CTR on a long stalk
Comfort is most important.
Heavier rifles reduce recoil and are far more accurate at longer distance but not great for 15 mile back slaps, although I don’t mind my 6.5 CTR on a long stalk
Comfort is most important.
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
And after the extra outlay for a proper Kipplauf I wouldn't want to risk marking it or damaging it!Yeah it ain't a Merkel K5, weight-wise. Trade offs... it'll cost you an additional £4k to shave off that excess kilo
Glendine
Well-Known Member
Many thanks for your help.They are made by Magpul, 6 in a box, the hand stop is Magpul too.
Magpul M-LOK® Rail Cover, Type 2
Product Details M-LOK Type 2 Rail Covers are low-profile two-piece covers that install directly onto most M-LOK aluminum hand guards non-polymerwww.tactical-kit.co.uk
Magpul M-LOK® Hand Stop Kit
Product Details The M-LOK Hand Stop Kit serves as a light weight low-profile M-LOK slot index point for improved weapon control or as a forward stop
Regards,
Glendine.
PhilSN12
Well-Known Member
My pleasure.
James Forester
Member
Nice setup! Is that the F&D 149? Contemplating the 196 on my .308 with a 20" barrel. How'd you get on with yours?
I had a F&D 196 which I used on my .308 T3X Wideland Veil and Sako S20, as well as a FW149 used on a Sako 75 .243 and an X-Bolt .270. Despite having full powder burn in the .308s 20” barrels, I had severe gas-cutting in the FW196 after about 2 years of not too heavy use. Unlike some other SD users experiences on here, I found F&D great to deal with and they replaced the FW196 with a UTS231 at substantial discount. The new one has a titanium core unlike the 196. All moderators are consumables IMHO and will not last forever but I’m hopeful the UTS231 fares better than the 196. So far, all appears good
James Forester
Member
Really interesting, thank you! Good to hear you got on so well with F&D, it'll be interesting to see how the new version fares. How do you find the user experience differs between the 149 and 196? Is there noticeable sound/recoil suppression with the 196? How's the new version by comparison too?I had a F&D 196 which I used on my .308 T3X Wideland Veil and Sako S20, as well as a FW149 used on a Sako 75 .243 and an X-Bolt .270. Despite having full powder burn in the .308s 20” barrels, I had severe gas-cutting in the FW196 after about 2 years of not too heavy use. Unlike some other SD users experiences on here, I found F&D great to deal with and they replaced the FW196 with a UTS231 at substantial discount. The new one has a titanium core unlike the 196. All moderators are consumables IMHO and will not last forever but I’m hopeful the UTS231 fares better than the 196. So far, all appears good
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Essexsussex
Well-Known Member
I’ve got a 243 savage in a synthetic stock barrel is fairly short from the factory, super pointable light accurate and dependable - and cheap!Hi guys,
I currently use a 24" tikka in 6.5 creedmoor for all my stalking. It sometimes is far too long and a pain in the ass.
Thinking of saving up and getting something a little lighter and more handy.
Just looking for ideas what you guys all think?
My initial thoughts was to get a 308 in around a 20" barrel or so. Then put it in something like a pse stock.
I also like the looks of the sig cross as its extremely light and has good adjustability in the butt.
A adjustable comb is a must too.
Any good ideas guys? Also anyone with experience on these particular kinds of rifles just so I can do some research for a while before jumping in.
All input is appreciated guys
The FW149 on my chopped 75 (Brock & Norris - there’s a post on here somewhere) is about as perfect as it can get - quiet, point able and you don’t know it’s there. I’m frankly pushing it using it on the 22” .270 but, for one shot deer stalking, it makes the X-bolt tolerable. It has an Alpex on it for fallow. The FW196 was a good “fit” for the 20” .308s and the UTS231 does “feel” bigger but, given the high use these rifles have, I think it’s a fair option. If money is no option, a colleague has the Oceania Defense Hunter moderator that I really do covet.
James Forester
Member
Has anyone got experience of cutting down a Sako 85 .308 barrel to 16" or 18" overall length, to keep it pointable with a mod?
geoffw
Well-Known Member
It's very light and thus pointable; I've no complaints about the lower decibel reduction since I always wear electronic ear defence
geoffw
Well-Known Member
Don't go shorter than 18" plus chamber was the consistent advice I got from a number of gunsmiths.
And yes, that makes it very pointable, esp with a short mod- I use a 149g (?) F&D mod though not everybody likes them.
16” from the bolt face is the general way to measure barrel length. There is both wrong with a 16” .308 measured this way.
I have one and it love’s 130gr TTSX just as much as fallow hate it.
It is a leap of faith chopping a barrel and should only be done after serious thought. I have other rifles I would use if expecting shots over 200 yards. Not that the .308 couldn’t do the job, it’s just not optimal.
I have one and it love’s 130gr TTSX just as much as fallow hate it.
It is a leap of faith chopping a barrel and should only be done after serious thought. I have other rifles I would use if expecting shots over 200 yards. Not that the .308 couldn’t do the job, it’s just not optimal.
Tikka t3 243 16” barrel
Just be wary jumping to a lighter rifle, especially in .308 - can be a very snappy round. the 6.5 creed very capable round, good bullet voice and sympathetic recoil. a light .308 on the other hand may knock you around a tad!Hi guys,
I currently use a 24" tikka in 6.5 creedmoor for all my stalking. It sometimes is far too long and a pain in the ass
Thinking of saving up and getting something a little lighter and more handy.
Just looking for ideas what you guys all think?
My initial thoughts was to get a 308 in around a 20" barrel or so. Then put it in something like a pse stock.
I also like the looks of the sig cross as its extremely light and has good adjustability in the butt.
A adjustable comb is a must too.
Any good ideas guys? Also anyone with experience on these particular kinds of rifles just so I can do some research for a while before jumping in.
All input is appreciated guys
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