Wanted: Vehicle under seal

I've had a motor done with Lanogard. It's good stuff. It wasn't a professionally prepared application, and it requires repeated yearly (more or less). It's not the be all and end all. More than one way to skin the dreaded rust cat.
 
I've had a motor done with Lanogard. It's good stuff. It wasn't a professionally prepared application, and it requires repeated yearly (more or less). It's not the be all and end all. More than one way to skin the dreaded rust cat.

A friends uncle used to thin down Hammerite with something like paraffin and paint the farm gates with it, they never rusted but you couldn't ever lean on them, haha.
 
I do the TD5 every other year with buzzweld blackit. Over the years I've used waxoil, drinitol and various homemade concoctions.

I looked into a alternative and came across a highly recommended company called buzzweld. They offer some premium products which tbh cost more than I wanted to pay but at the time were experimenting with a new budget line called "blackit"

I gave it a go and it's fantastic. Easy to apply, and doesnt leave a oily tacky to the touch finish, drys like paint but very durable. 6 one litre shultz cans give a TD5 two good coats. Not the best photos but it gives you an idea
Some of the serious Landrover boys round here are saying Buzzweld WAR, doesn't wear off, they own a Garage that specialises in Land Rovers, seen everything on the market, say sheds mud like teflon, when I get round to it, that's what I'll be using on defender & van.
 
Some of the serious Landrover boys round here are saying Buzzweld WAR, doesn't wear off, they own a Garage that specialises in Land Rovers, seen everything on the market, say sheds mud like teflon, when I get round to it, that's what I'll be using on defender & van.
It was the LR forums where I seen the buzzweld recommended, in particular the WAR product you've mentioned. It looks amazing tbh. But I just wanted something I could bang on after a chassis clean n dry. I think if your going to the expense of the WAR then you've also to invest the time to correctly prep, treat, and apply. I can jet wash the blackit and it's good for 18 months or so. Usually ready for a reapplication around the 18-24 month period. Apparently the WAR you can blast with a shotgun and it's still good to go 😆
 
I use smooth Hammerite, then apply Lanoguard.

Also used Lanoguard on my Ifor Williams P6e trailer, including the wheels.

The next day both trailer tyres had deflated.

The Lanoguard had interacted with the rusty wheel rims and caused the tubeless tyres to go flat.

Had to clean the Lanoguard off, break the beads on the tyres and reseal them to resolve the issue.

So be careful applying Lanoguard near any tubeless tyres.
 
This is a very helpful thread. I need to get my Grand Vitara done. Last summer had a quote of £1500 to have it Dinitrol treated. Buzz weld is about 5 mins for me and I called by on Monday. Very nice guy frantically busy but truck to go in ASAP. Full steam clean prior to treatment.
Will update
D
 
If you choose the lanolin route like I did then I'd go with lanoclear or lanoblack that are sold by Carbusonic. I found it a lot better than the main brand everyone goes for, Lanogard. Its cheaper too, and you can choose clear or a nice matte black finish that makes the chassis look new. Really is great stuff. When I bought lanogard a few years ago I had a dodgy batch that didn't set and it washed off straight away, and customer service was terrible, I think the company has got a bit complacent and hiding behind their big brand name.
 
Done my Isuzu with lanoguard the day I bought it brand new 2 years ago, still looking good , will do again next couple months
 
Back
Top